Pete Payne,
What is it that holds the midvalve against the piston face? Is it the same spring that would hold the checkplate up?
How much force would it take to overcome that spring? Very little. The midvalve is nothing but a check plate at low velocities. It does nothing until you have a larger amount of fluid being forced over it. There is plenty of gap there to allow an almost unrestricted flow. Therefore, at lower displacements and velocity a distorted midvalve has little impact towards poor performance. Where the distortion really causes problems is on the rebound stroke. Instead of blocking off the flow the distorted shim will allow fluid to bleed past it resulting in a nearly uncontrollable rebound. At velocity or displacement levels where the midvalve would be doing it's job it WOULD be weaker, yes. But on the compression stroke this would be no worse than just having a standard checkplate installed. The most negative result of a blown(distorted) midvalve is poor rebound performance. So, in my opinion the result of this harshness has nothing to do with the midvalve. Harshness is probably in the valve stack, spring rate, oil level or any combination of these things.
So tell me, did you install Gold Valves and the necessary valving changes at the same time you removed the midvalve as per RT recommended instructions? Probably, since your an RT Dealer. So how would you know if it was the removal of the midvalve that gave your bike a better ride?
Maybe it was the Gold Valve? But, the 23mm Showa piston is almost an exact twin, in respect to flow rate, to a Type 1 Gold valve isn't it? Replacing that Showa piston with a Type 1 Gold Valve has ZERO advantage in terms of the piston itself. That would leave us with the valving. It IS possible that the RT recommended valving made your improvement. It is also possible that you could put a RT shim stack on the stock Showa piston and have it work equally well. Midvalve or not. Midvalve is mainly affected by larger swept volumes. Low velocity and low displacement levels are not a problem area with midvalves. Removing a midvalve is like taking away from your bottoming resistance. To gain that back you have to build your valving firmer. That could possibly make your ride harsh. Whoever came up with the midvalve idea did well in my opinion. I used to believe, like you, what we were taught. But, then I started to really think about it and changed my mind. Midvalves began to appear in like 95 I think. If they were the result of a poor performing fork do you suppose the OE suspension engineers would have figuured that out by now and took them out of production? I mean if they were really that bad of a thing they would be long gone by now. Think about that for one minute. If they were the sole cause or even a common denominator of 90% of all fork problems do you really think they would continue on with them? I doubt it.
What is it that holds the midvalve against the piston face? Is it the same spring that would hold the checkplate up?
So tell me, did you install Gold Valves and the necessary valving changes at the same time you removed the midvalve as per RT recommended instructions? Probably, since your an RT Dealer. So how would you know if it was the removal of the midvalve that gave your bike a better ride?