Just looking for some advice: I just bought a 99 380 MXC and was wanting opinions on things I should be aware of or looking for. I am currently riding a KX 500, and was wondering about the transition from the beast to a lighter more nimble open bike. This is my first KTM, and I really don't know what to expect. I have zero experience with the WP 50mm Conventional forks and the linkageless rear end. Any hints will be appreciated!!!
1999 Ktm 380 Mxc
- Thread starter efivecoat
- Start date
I have a '99 380 EXC, which I am preparing for sale, that has been a great bike. Here are some things to look out for:
The 50mm's were fantastic forks, but watch out for the seals. I would suggest getting some fork skinz for em.
Some people believe running your chain too tight loosens the sprocket bolts, prematurely wears the chain and sprockets, beats up on the transmission and wheel bearings and makes your suspension bind up. Heres the procedure to set the tension that I plagiarized from another site:
-Take off your rear shock and move your rear wheel through it's stroke to determine the chain's tightest point. Make adjustments at that point. Replace the shock and make a note of chain tension (like 3 fingers at chain guide). From there adjust with at least 1/2" of play. Find a good method to mark this for the next adjustment. A good reference is when the bike is on a stand with the wheels hanging freely, pushing up on the lower chain, midway between the chain slider and the chain guide, will just barely get the chain to touch the bottom of the aluminum swing-arm.
Hope this helps.
The 50mm's were fantastic forks, but watch out for the seals. I would suggest getting some fork skinz for em.
Some people believe running your chain too tight loosens the sprocket bolts, prematurely wears the chain and sprockets, beats up on the transmission and wheel bearings and makes your suspension bind up. Heres the procedure to set the tension that I plagiarized from another site:
-Take off your rear shock and move your rear wheel through it's stroke to determine the chain's tightest point. Make adjustments at that point. Replace the shock and make a note of chain tension (like 3 fingers at chain guide). From there adjust with at least 1/2" of play. Find a good method to mark this for the next adjustment. A good reference is when the bike is on a stand with the wheels hanging freely, pushing up on the lower chain, midway between the chain slider and the chain guide, will just barely get the chain to touch the bottom of the aluminum swing-arm.
Hope this helps.
TreeKiller
Member
- Oct 25, 2001
- 73
- 0
efivecoat,
If you don't mind me asking how much was the shipping?
Thanks,
TreeKiller
If you don't mind me asking how much was the shipping?
Thanks,
TreeKiller
- Thread starter
- #5
tree killer,
it surprised me, butit was only 150 from KS ro NC. Yellow Freight handled the chore. The seller said that he did receive a discount from his employer, but I don't know how much of a discount.
380ePete,
I had heard that chain tension was a major difference, thanks for the advice and information!!!
it surprised me, butit was only 150 from KS ro NC. Yellow Freight handled the chore. The seller said that he did receive a discount from his employer, but I don't know how much of a discount.
380ePete,
I had heard that chain tension was a major difference, thanks for the advice and information!!!