2000 RM 125 Clutch / Shifting Problem.

[VinnyTAMU]

Here is my problem. I just bought a used dike and took it out to ride this weekend. Bike runs fine and was running very strong until about the third lap approximately 10 min into riding. Anyways I was in either 2nd or 3rd gear or when I when I down shifted the shifter was stuck in the down position. The bike went into neutral and I coasted to a stop. To get the shifter un-stuck I had the kick the shifter fairly hard to return it back to the neutral position. I then continued to ride for about 2 more minutes and the shifter became stuck again, this time in the up position. I rolled to a stop again and kicked the shifter fairly hard into the down position. After this 2nd time all hell broke loose. The shifter then proceeded to not want to shift at all, and if it did shift it would stick in either the up or down position. So I took the bike into the pits and looked the bike over. The clutch was properly adjusted and looked like it was fully disengaging the clutch. While the bike was sitting (engine off) I proceeded to shift the gears. The bike would go through all of its gears and not stick at all. So I started the bike back up again, Idled it a bit, pulled in the clutch and shifter into first. The engine immediately died. It seamed as if the bike engaged. So I kicked the bike back over and pulled in the clutch this time when I shifted to first I gave the bike a little gas. The bike went into first and pulled forward alittle bit, but the engine did not die. However if I let off the gas the bike would die immediately. So I started riding the bike again and the shifter would still stick while shifting in either the up or down position. I packed the bike up and went home. Can anyone help me with this problem? Any suggestions as to what I should do?

Before I took the bike out I replaced the gear oil with Gear Saver 80wt to the proper level.

 

[marcusgunby]

the earlier rm gearboxes were know for weakness-you need to dissassemble the engine and look for damage, they tend to allow the shifter to go too far and it does major damage.

 

[VinnyTAMU]

So am I looking at replacing the friction plates and clutch basket or having to split my cases and go through the gears and shifting forks?

 

[marcusgunby]

Yes:) seriously it could be something small or a whole gearbox-you need to get in have a look around.

 

[VinnyTAMU]

well I took the bike out this morning and rode the bike down the street. The bike still has the problem of when shifting to 1st with the clutch pulled in still stalls the bike. How can I fix this? I then rode the bike down the street and the bike shifted fine! I don't know what was different between when I was at the track and around my house. Maybe it had to do with not having any load on the bike. Well any ways I guess I gotta take a look at the transmission. Any other ideas?

 

[01RM125]

well I took the bike out this morning and rode the bike down the street. The bike still has the problem of when shifting to 1st with the clutch pulled in still stalls the bike. How can I fix this?

This is usally notched clutch baskets. Search here for "rm 125 clutch basket" or "clutch creep" and you should find many threads on this. Just open up the clutch cover, and you can see if the basket is notched. If the baskets are notched you can file them (if they are not too bad), or buy a billet basket or steel inserted basket.
The shifter sticking up or down, I don't know, but I think Marcus has said, you'd have to split the case and look around.

 

[muddy226]

I don't know if this will help at all but my 2000 RM250 had selection problems which got worse quite quickly, and then the shifter stuck and refused to find any gears at all. I ended up splitting the cases and discovered the dogs on several gears badly worn, having been sure that the shift forks were bent I checked carefully and they were perfect. Also, the little engagement dogs in the shift drum were very worn, so I replaced these also. The first thing to check before completely splitting the cases are the two screws which hold the shifter drum mechanism, these can sometimes work loose and cause problems, and it would be great if you could just loctite them and solve the problem ! As regards the clutch drag, I think that they all did that from new. I replaced the stock basket with a Hinson, but it still did it, although the old basket was worn anyway so the change was worth it. However just recently I replaced the clutch fibre plates and was pleasantly surprised to find that the bike can now be started in gear, there's no jerking and grabbing on the line, and the pull is easier also. I guess the old plates were past due. One other thing is to be very careful if trying to draw file the fingers in your existing basket, if you do not file each one exactly the same then the load will not be evenly distributed to individual fingers, and you may well end up with a bigger bill than ever. If the basket is badly notched, best to junk it and invest in a quality replacement. The Clymer manual is pretty good if doing this work yourself, as I discovered after I had done mine ! They have a good illustration of the order of gears, circlips, washers etc and the way they all fit together. When splitting the cases you shouldn't need to remove the crank from the ignition side, and on the 250 anyway its not too hard to remove the crank from the clutch side with the usual applications of heat/cold etc and a tool you can make yourself. Hope this helps.

 

[VinnyTAMU]

I opened the clutch side up today and found that the basket was badly grooved. So I will be replacing the basket. As for replacement baskets is the Hinson worth the price? What about other baskets? Also while I am at it I will replace the friction plates. Which friction plates would you guys recommend? As for splitting the cases to look at the gears, what tools will I need? I know I will need a tool for splitting the cases, but will I need a shop press to press the cases back together?

Also muddy226 could you give me an estimate as to how much it cost you in parts to repair and dogs and such in the transmission. Thanks

 

[muddy226]

I can't really give an estimate any use because things over here tend to cost more than in US. A Hinson is a good buy, I think I would be inclined to do the clutch first and see what happens. If you do split the cases you shouldn't need to use a shop press to reassemble, but you will need a freezer and a heat gun.

 

[marcusgunby]

I would use std plates, as alot of the aftermarket stuff is junk.

 

[VinnyTAMU]

Well this past weekend I decided to shave the grooves down on the basket so they would be flush again. I started the bike up pulled in the clutch and kicked it into first. The bike didn't stall so I fixed my creep issue. Next I decided to push my luck and take the bike to the track to see if you bike still had its gear selection problem. I took the bike out and it shifted fine! with the exception of finding neutral a few times shifting from 1st to 2nd the bike shifted great. Obvioulsy with the clutch basket grooved like that the clutch was not fully disengaging and it was like shifting the bike with out pulling in the clutch. Is this something that I should worry about? I always use the clutch with shifting up and about 75% of the time while shifting down. Should all bikes shift without the clutch?

 

[marcusgunby]

I never ever shift with the clutch.

 

[VinnyTAMU]

Well the shifter is now completly stuck! I guess I shouldn't have pressed my luck by riding the bike after fixing the clutch basket. I took the bike out last weekend (previous post) and everything was fine. I then took the bike back out again this weekend and bike was riding fine for about 2-1/2 hours and the the shifter completly locked up. I can no longer shift the bike. If I try the shifter will bearly move even if I really hit it. I guess I have no choice but to split the cases and look inside. Any suggestions