I replaced my rear brake pads about 200 miles ago and they are already showing significant wear. When I spin the wheel I can feel friction between the pads and the rotor and the wheel will not "free spin" for very many revolutions...does this sound normal to you guys? The pads are EBC sintered. Is there a way I can tell if they are in a bind or something?
abnormal brake wear
- Thread starter KnoxKDX
- Start date
Did you replace the rotors with the pads?
If not, they are not matched. IF you have grooves, etc they will just wear into your new pads like the old ones. Your rotors could also be warped. The pins in the caliper could have grooves in them.
The list goes on. If you want to do things right, get new rotors, pads, brake pins and then grease the brake pins and do the wheel bearings while you have the wheel off.
If not, they are not matched. IF you have grooves, etc they will just wear into your new pads like the old ones. Your rotors could also be warped. The pins in the caliper could have grooves in them.
The list goes on. If you want to do things right, get new rotors, pads, brake pins and then grease the brake pins and do the wheel bearings while you have the wheel off.
David Trustrum
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- Jan 25, 2001
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Sheesh! Well maybe if you are a Kawasaki parts man. :scream:
Ok if the discs are totally totally totally hoady it may be worth replacing them. But I’m talking grooves a couple of mm deep. I mean it’s only the back for heavens sake! & yes I have replaced mine as they were.
If they are straight a brush down with some emery is nice. If you have access to a lathe then spin them up on that with some emery on a flat object held up against it. I’ve surprised an experienced machinist with how well that works.
Okay first things first. Block the bike up & spin the wheel. Take the calliper off & do it again to check the difference so you have a feel for any other problems & what the drag of the chain is like (you can take the chain off if you like). How much pedal play is there? If misadjusted the master cylinder can’t return fully. Back it off so there is a lot of play as a test.
Check the fluid reservoir cap vent is clean.
Now I would be tempted to pump the pistons out of the calliper & clean them up + check that there is no crud behind them stopping the pistons going back fully. The pad pins may need replacing. The sliding shafts need greasing with copper hi temp stuff. My calliper was so sloppy it twisted a bit so I bushed on of those pins a bit.
Ok if the discs are totally totally totally hoady it may be worth replacing them. But I’m talking grooves a couple of mm deep. I mean it’s only the back for heavens sake! & yes I have replaced mine as they were.
If they are straight a brush down with some emery is nice. If you have access to a lathe then spin them up on that with some emery on a flat object held up against it. I’ve surprised an experienced machinist with how well that works.
Okay first things first. Block the bike up & spin the wheel. Take the calliper off & do it again to check the difference so you have a feel for any other problems & what the drag of the chain is like (you can take the chain off if you like). How much pedal play is there? If misadjusted the master cylinder can’t return fully. Back it off so there is a lot of play as a test.
Check the fluid reservoir cap vent is clean.
Now I would be tempted to pump the pistons out of the calliper & clean them up + check that there is no crud behind them stopping the pistons going back fully. The pad pins may need replacing. The sliding shafts need greasing with copper hi temp stuff. My calliper was so sloppy it twisted a bit so I bushed on of those pins a bit.
First off any grooves in the rotors will get worn right into the new pads. You will have bad braking until they do since only the high spots on the rotor will hit the pads. Then once things do seat, you are back to where you were with the old pads! Most pads are VERY thin and give you little to no room for wear.
For the pads, the EBC MX units come with pads. That is a no brainer there.
Rotors are cheap through RockyMountainMC. $50 each for the Titax units, $80 for the SS ones. That is cheap enough to replace there.
I do work for a kawi dealer and the Titax units are still WAY cheaper than cost on OEM or my cost on like EBC, russel, Braking etcs are by at least $25.00.
For machining the rotors, you can do it. It is tough on a brake lathe as the metal comes out a one long ribbon. If that gets stock in the cutters, you will groove the rotor deeper there.
For the best braking, do it right the first time. IT sure is cheaper and works better!
For the pads, the EBC MX units come with pads. That is a no brainer there.
Rotors are cheap through RockyMountainMC. $50 each for the Titax units, $80 for the SS ones. That is cheap enough to replace there.
I do work for a kawi dealer and the Titax units are still WAY cheaper than cost on OEM or my cost on like EBC, russel, Braking etcs are by at least $25.00.
For machining the rotors, you can do it. It is tough on a brake lathe as the metal comes out a one long ribbon. If that gets stock in the cutters, you will groove the rotor deeper there.
For the best braking, do it right the first time. IT sure is cheaper and works better!
If the rotors are “dished” it will cause abnormally fast wear. That said, my KDX has always been hard on brakes. The rear pads have always worn asymmetrically. I’ve never been able to truly get to the bottom of it. I suspect the caliper may get trail crap in it and does not return smoothly at times. Riding muddy enduros, there’s not a lot you can do. Leaves, mud, twigs all find there way in with the pads. Under those conditions two races (~200 miles) is about all I expect out of a set. I can eat a set of Galfer pads in one race. The Dunlopad sintered pads are very hard and last, but they also tear up the disk. I’ve found Moose pads to be the best compromise.
Good one David, how did you know?
Unless you have a warped or bent rotor, it shouldn't need replacing. I'm not sure about the grooving part, mine are both smooth and free of grooves. We ride in the mud quite often, and if that was the case then they would be more grooved.
You need to follow David T's advise in that order, the only thing I can add is to check the rotor with an indicator. That will tell you if it's running true or not.
I've replaced the rear rotor with a Titax unit, only because the stock unit got bent real good before I had a guard on there. The back end would wobble when you applied the rear brake. I'm getting ready to replace the rear stock pads, over 1500 miles on them and they are finally thin.(I don't use the rear brake that much if you couldn't tell.) :laugh:
Brush: You might want to look into a Devol type of rear guard, it covers the rear rotor more. Would help to keep more trash out of there. Just an opinion.
David Trustrum
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- Jan 25, 2001
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Take up indoor trials?
This will give you an idea of what I mean:
http://www.photoreflect.com/scripts...hoto=032E000V000033&start=0&album=0&adjust=-1
It's a pic from the New England Championship enduro (NETRA)
David Trustrum
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- Jan 25, 2001
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[pissy-mother voice] Yueew! Don’t you come inside like that! And if I even see you near my washing machine!
Come to think of it if one of my riding buddies turned up at the van like that I think I would just floor it & let him ride home :)
Come to think of it if one of my riding buddies turned up at the van like that I think I would just floor it & let him ride home :)
- Thread starter
- #18
Well, I can't see anything wrong with my setup at all...I guess I've just been riding hard this year. I cleaned the pins when I pulled the assembly apart, I replaced my rear wheel bearings, I took emery cloth and a brush wheel to the rotor just to rough it a bit (it's not warped or grooved), and I checked the brake linkage for debris...I'm stuck I guess. If 200 miles is half worn for brakes, then I guess I'm about right, but this bikes a '98 and according to the original owner this was it's 1st brake change. Are stock pads that much better than EBC's?
kelseybrent
Member
- Sep 25, 2002
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"Are stock pads that much better than EBC's?"
I ran a pair of new 152X's in a muddy enduro this year, broke my clutch lever at about the 3/4 mark and called it a day. Checked the pads when I washed it up and they were worn flush.
I have enough to worry about keeping myself in one piece when I ride, so worrying about changing brake pads mid ride is asking too much. Back to stock pads.
I ran a pair of new 152X's in a muddy enduro this year, broke my clutch lever at about the 3/4 mark and called it a day. Checked the pads when I washed it up and they were worn flush.
I have enough to worry about keeping myself in one piece when I ride, so worrying about changing brake pads mid ride is asking too much. Back to stock pads.
