Can I modify a CRF150R to be more mild? (beginner wife)

[rodH]

OK, My wife is a beginner rider and we got a CRF150R a few years ago for her (when they first came out). She fell off of it and hurt her knee and has been very intimidated ever since. We went out yesterday and she is having a hard time.

That bike seems to really want to scream, either on or off power, on or off brakes (panic braking throws her off the bike and she stalls it before she realizes she needs to pull in the clutch) and is really twitchy.

She is a total beginner, so I think she needs a different bike or to modify this bike. She is 5'7" and about 125 pounds.

Would changing the gearing on it make it easier for her to ride? Jetting? it just seems really hard to ride slow and I agree, it seems really squirly handling wise as well. or should be just dump it and get something else?

 

[RM85rider123]

A flywheel weight could really help. scroll down until you see the 150r- http://www.steahlyoffroad.com/weights.php?s_description=crf150r&s_make=Honda&s_category=1

 

[_JOE_]

You can try going up a tooth on the front sprocket to see if it makes any improvement. It's cheap and easy too.

The jetting might also help. The needle being the most important followed by the pilot. I doubt she ever rides on the main.

 

[_JOE_]

A JD needle might help...http://www.jdjetting.com/xcart/product.php?productid=65&cat=0&page=1&featured

 

[Rich Rohrich]

Sell it and buy a CRF150F, the current version of the old XR series. The 150R has a power peak set at 12,500 rpm. As a result there is too much cam, too much intake port area, and too little leeway to be ridden in the way you are describing. The chassis is the same. It doesn't have lazy (i.e. forgiving) geometry like an XR. It's a race bike, and all the mickey mouse bolt on junk in the world won't change that fact.

I have a riot with mine, but I wouldn't stick a novice rider on it. That's what TTR125s and CRF150Fs are for.

 

[medwaste]

I agree with Rich. I've had my 150r for 2 yrs. and still feel like a novice on it. My reflexes are just too slow for it. But on the other hand, I feel I can ride my ttr blindfolded. The 150F or the Kaw.140L are really fun bikes to ride too.

 

[justalonewolf007]

Absolutely agreeing with Rich here. The 150R is too much for her to learn on. Start out on a 150F, or any of the 4-stroke 125s.

 

[nikki]

Also agreeing with Rich! We have both a CRF150F and a CRF150R, and I totally agree. The only downside to the 150F is that it is heavier than the 150R, but at 5'7" your wife should be okay with the extra weight. The bikes are about the same size (150F has 16"/19" wheels, compared to 14"/17" on the 150R), but the power is MUCH more mellow and forgiving on the 150F, and would be a lot easier for her as a beginner. In our area, threre are some good deals on 150F's on Craigslist. You should probably be able to sell your 150R for more than it will cost to pick up a used 150F.

 

[Porkchop]

Whilst I agree with Mr. Rohrich, Joes suggestion of a larger front sprocket is backwards. The front sprocket needs to be smaller to gear it down, beginners don't need a bike with top end gearing, It needs to work well between 0- 35 mph.
Good Luck & Best Regards, Porkchop

 

[nikki]

I agree with Rich. I've had my 150r for 2 yrs. and still feel like a novice on it. My reflexes are just too slow for it. But on the other hand, I feel I can ride my ttr blindfolded. The 150F or the Kaw.140L are really fun bikes to ride too.

Medwaste - you might want to consider trying an auto-clutch in your 150R. They are pretty pricey, but make the bike easier to ride, no stalling, can lug it around a little more (read: be lazy!). I have a Rekluse Z-Start Pro auto-clutch in my 150R (which I converted to a RB) that I use for racing hare scrambles, and its soooo much fun!! And you can still use the clutch lever as an override when you want to, like to feather the clutch up a hill or in a really tight turn, but you don't have to (especially nice in some of the more sweeping turns). Expensive, but a pretty cool mod!

 

[_JOE_]

Whilst I agree with Mr. Rohrich, Joes suggestion of a larger front sprocket is backwards. The front sprocket needs to be smaller to gear it down, beginners don't need a bike with top end gearing, It needs to work well between 0- 35 mph.
Good Luck & Best Regards, Porkchop

That bike seems to really want to scream, either on or off power

A smaller front sprocket will make the bike respond with quicker acceleration. Am I wrong?

 

[Porkchop]

Gear up or Gear down, on the wrong motor?

Hi joe, lower gearing will let the motor rev, while converting more of the available power to rear wheel, controllable usable torque. That motor has a racing cam to make peak power at high engine rpm, higher gearing will cause the bike to bog thru the lower rpm range with less controllable rear wheel torque, then power comes on too late& way to fast for this riders comfort zone, if you will. In my opinion there is nothing worse than an over geared, high revving, small displacement bike on a tight twisting trail or a track. It's one thing if the rider is an intermediate or expert that can ride the bike aggressively, but we're talking about this mans wife who sounds like a beginner or a novice rider, best to start out with a bike set up to work well going slower. Best Regards, Porkchop... :cool:

 

[rmc_olderthandirt]

"Controllable" is the key word here. If a beginner rider can't control the power then going to a higher gear so that engine never developed the power would be a stop gap measure to avoid the problem.

 

[Porkchop]

Other options can be considered to tone down the motor, #1- change out the head for a crf150f head, #2- change out the cam only which only deals with part of the problem, (the larger intake valves) also there may be different ignition mapping on the R to the F. All the above are band aids to the real solution, #3- sell the R model & buy the F model, probably the most cost effective & reliable solution. Changing to higher final drive gearing on a motor that is a top end screamer, for a beginner rider will make the bike bog around, not accelerate smoothly & properly then if the rider holds the throttle on long enough, have the big power spike too much & way late. For a beginner rider that combination makes for a bike that is not much fun to ride & is a possible recipe for disaster. After all this dialog, Honda did design 2 bikes, one for racing the other for entry level riders. That's the story & I'm sticking to it.
Best Regards & good Luck, Porkchop....

 

[Rich Rohrich]

Other options can be considered to tone down the motor, #1- change out the head for a crf150f head, #2- change out the cam only which only deals with part of the problem, (the larger intake valves) also there may be different ignition mapping on the R to the F. All the above are band aids to the real solution, #3- sell the R model & buy the F model, probably the most cost effective & reliable solution. Changing to higher final drive gearing on a motor that is a top end screamer, for a beginner rider will make the bike bog around, not accelerate smoothly & properly then if the rider holds the throttle on long enough, have the big power spike too much & way late. For a beginner rider that combination makes for a bike that is not much fun to ride & is a possible recipe for disaster. After all this dialog, Honda did design 2 bikes, one for racing the other for entry level riders. That's the story & I'm sticking to it.
Best Regards & good Luck, Porkchop....

The F head and ignition won't work (2 valve rocker based hemi, versus 4 valve bucket pentroof) , and there isn't a cam that can mask the huge intake area (carb, port and valves) in this engine.

You summed it up perfectly though, Honda built two very different bikes for a reason.

 

[Porkchop]

Mr. Rohrich, Thank You. Have a great day ladies & gentlemen, Porkchop...