I don't wanna start another flaming contest here but I'm curious what kind of sprockets people are using on their enduros. Has anyone tried the stainless "Titax" sprockets from Rocky mountain mx or the "primary drive? I think I'm gonna go with the RK X-ring chian and some sort of steel rear. Thanks for your input
Chain and sprockets?
- Thread starter Treb37
- Start date
On the topic of chains and sprockets...
i'm looking to replace the set on my 90 kdx200. What is a good combo for number of teeth on each sprocket?
I do woods riding and some hills and try to keep as much low end torque as possible.
advice??
Thanks, Erin
___________________________________________
1990 KDX200
Pennsylvania
Tower City Trail Riders, Inc.
i'm looking to replace the set on my 90 kdx200. What is a good combo for number of teeth on each sprocket?
I do woods riding and some hills and try to keep as much low end torque as possible.
advice??
Thanks, Erin
___________________________________________
1990 KDX200
Pennsylvania
Tower City Trail Riders, Inc.
Erin,
your bike comes stock with a 13/47. I would think you would find a bit better ride with a 13/50-52.
your bike comes stock with a 13/47. I would think you would find a bit better ride with a 13/50-52.
Rj,you may have a point.However,i think a cog that stays in shape is best for chain life.A beat sprocket will use up a chain worse than you might think?An x- ring chain/steel cog set properly adjusted and lubed is the longest lasting combo imo.I use sunstar steel as well.
Erin, i run a 13/50 on my kdx and like it better than the stock set.
Erin, i run a 13/50 on my kdx and like it better than the stock set.
Fact is, a chain is what ruins a sprocket. A good chain that is within specification will NOT tear up an aluminum sprocket. Only when a chain's pitch has exceeded spec. will it deform the teeth on a sprocket.
It only "seems" that a steel sprocket is better, but it actually accelerates the demise of a stretched chain.
Another fact is that if you never let your chain get past spec. length, then you can keep running the same sprockets over and over again.
Only forgiegn debris, bad adjustment, and chain growth will screw up ANY sprocket, steel or aluminum.
It only "seems" that a steel sprocket is better, but it actually accelerates the demise of a stretched chain.
Another fact is that if you never let your chain get past spec. length, then you can keep running the same sprockets over and over again.
Only forgiegn debris, bad adjustment, and chain growth will screw up ANY sprocket, steel or aluminum.
xr400forever
Member
- Jan 6, 2002
- 51
- 0
Rocky mountain sells steel (primary drive) rear sprockets for about $15. A new chain is $50 (for a decent o-ring). When my rear sprocket wore out (and I do mean WORN OUT)I just put on a new primary drive rear sprocket (no, I did not replace the whole set like everyone says to do!) and kept riding. So far things seem to wearing at a reasonable rate, and I saved a wad by not replacing "everything at once". A whole new set would have been $100+, so even if the rear sprocket (a cheap $15 steel one)wears out at twice the rate, which it is not, I will be saving money. At some point I suppose it will become unreliable, then I will replace it all.
If your chain's pitch has grown to a point that it deformed the teeth of either sprocket, it has become unreliable. Don't kid yourself, which is what you are doing, xr400forever.
The cost of a new case and the healing a few bones far outweighs the price of a chain and some good maintenance practice.
The cost of a new case and the healing a few bones far outweighs the price of a chain and some good maintenance practice.
I find that a smaller sprocket on the rear = less wear on the chain guide. Therefore, I recommend a 12/46 combo (which is so close to being the same as 13/50 thats it's not worth arguing about).
When I used to run a large rear sprocket I found that the angle the chain came through the guide was chopping the rear of the guide so badly it wore through the rear bolt quite quickly. Now, the wear is a lot more even, and the guide lasts a lot longer.
When I used to run a large rear sprocket I found that the angle the chain came through the guide was chopping the rear of the guide so badly it wore through the rear bolt quite quickly. Now, the wear is a lot more even, and the guide lasts a lot longer.
- Jan 8, 2000
- 3,331
- 1
Having too small of a c/s sprocket really puts a lot of wear on the chain because of the tight turn it needs to make. A 12 tooth sprocket is OK for a roller chain, but too small for an X- or O-ring chain.
GREENHORNET
~SPONSOR~
- Jan 20, 2003
- 119
- 0
hey- i'm not sure what to run i have a 13/51 set up right now there hardly is a first gear- u rev out real fast ,it is a reall hill climbing machine but i do a lot of riding in fields wide open and some in real tight timbers so i was woundering if i went to a 13/49-50 would i have it good in both worlds?
I agree that the smaller the CS sprocket, the harder the chain has to work. It is always best to use the largest CS sprocket you can to obtain the gearing you want.
However, your statement about being OK for roller chains but too small for X-or O-ring chains is not correct.
All three chains, Standard, X-ring, and O-ring are essentially the same chains. They are all three roller chains made in almost identical fashion. The only difference in them is that X and O-ring chains have a ring that helps to keep pre-packed lubricant in the pin/bushing area.
It matter not what type of roller chain you use, if you go small on your CS sprocket, you risk loosing some life of your drive set-up.
hey xr 400, i had that metality, til my chain stretch cought up with me, then totally out of the blue, chain jumped broke the shift rod and about 150 bucks in parts, and a new chain sproket set for the same, i am about to get to go rindin, cheap maintenance i say and alot easier than the work for replacing all the gaskets and the shift rod. soggysod