First time piston change / clutch rebuild

[maxrevs666]

Hi all, as the winter period is beginning to set it , I am planning on doing a piston change and also a clutch basket / friction plate change on my trusty 2001 KX125. I have the owners manual (clymer) but it only covers models up to 2000. this is probably the most advanced work I have ever done on any sort of engine and I am understandably a little anxious about it. Does anyone have any information that might be relevant to this year of bike that won't be covered by the manual?
I am pretty nervous but I reckon if I take it nice and slowly I should be ok. - any thoughts? :think:

 

[maxrevs666]

Ok, just for any who may be interested in my progress, I tackled the clutch last night. All I can say is "hell in a clutch basket" the basket tangs had grooves on them that were almost saw-like - Ill put up a picture later. Fortunately, everything came apart pretty easily. The most difficult part was drilling out the rivets holding the drive gear to the original basket and seperating the old basket from the gear. I have cleaned everything and the gear is tucked away nicely in my freezer. I plan on heating the new basket tonight to make fitting the two together somewhat easier.

 

[JD_MXRacer]

its good that its going good so far. i will also be doing the clutch swap this winter. i might have to get some tips from you when youre done

 

[2strokerfun]

Sounds like you are doing a fine job. I'm not familiar with Kawa's, so I can't say if any differences between 00 and 01 that manual might not cover, but I'll bet it's going to be pretty close. If you run into any problems--and really, even if you don't--your best bet is to get an 01 shop manual from Kawa. Good luck.

 

[hot125mod]

clymer manuals are really informative with pictures. They're only $20.00 or something close to it.

 

[maxrevs666]

Ok, time for another progress update. The whole freezing the gear / heating the basket deal went smoothly, once I realised you have to get the basket REALLY hot. The friction discs I left soak overnight went in nice and smoothly and the rest of the bits went back together quickly enough. I filled her with the correct amount of oil and I'm happy to say its running nicely now with none of the previous dragging it used to have. The real test will be when I hit the trails though….

Now for the"but" and it’s a big "but" - not everything went so smoothly…….

When tightening the clutch nut to lock the hub in place, the socket slipped and the bar broke one of the columns that the pressure plate sits onto, this called for some intense "tomfoolery", I used a longer bolt to go through from the back of the hub, through the broken shaft which was reinforced with some abro steel and used a nut and plenty loctite to hold on the pressure plates and clutch springs. I am fairly hopeful that this solution will not cause any problems, any ideas?

 

[maxrevs666]

Im thinking by the lack of responses that most people are stunned into silence ;)

 

[Jasle]

If I'm understanding you right you sort of jury rigged a repair using some type of epoxy through the spring and clamping plate?
sounds sort of dodgy to me. Will probably work but I'd be freaking out all the time. every time you hear something wierd you'll be thinking of your work. I had the same part broken on my kids ktm and it was not all that expensive. Especially compared to the expense of the basket you just replaced. Think of this. Say it does not hold and comes apart and gets wedged in between the gears. potentially your out your new basket, gear on the crank and the gear that bolts to the basket...really pricey.

13187: PLATE-CLUTCH OPERATIN 1494-001 $44.11 from bike bandit.com

 

[fidgeT]

o.O

 

[lilcane88]

is it fixed??? any progress or anythimg else you've broke