First Valve Adj. on 400 exc grrr...

Rodzilla

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Jul 21, 1999
615
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Ok,

I got down to bid-ness last night and did a valve check on my 400 exc.

Not bad, not as easy as on my old XR4 but not too bad with one exception.

I bought the bike used (from Lawman) and I am totally happy with it :) but the bike came with radiator guards (unknown make, Devol?) that are nearly impossible to take off/put on!

How are you supposed to get an allen wrench in between the guards and radiator w/o bending the guards? I'd hate to bend these too much for fear of really weakening them :scream:

I know everyone says the KTM's are very well thought out and easy to work on....but geeze those valve area clearances are a bear to get to, even with angled feeler guages! :think:

Even with all the trauma (I was up until 1 a.m. finishing) I'm glad it's done for a little while! I think I'll keep her! :)

Rod
 

Strick

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Nov 8, 1999
1,782
2
Now imagine having to deal with cup and shims to adjust the valves like some of the more 'common' 4 strokes.

RFS = Real Frequent Servicing (required)

I still love mine though. I too will be adjusting my valves (for the third time) within the next 100miles.
 
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desert_racer

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Feb 2, 2000
538
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Are you supposed to set both sets of valves (intake & exaust) with the piston at TDC. When I set mine to TDC and tightened down the crank holder screw at the front of the engine I could not get a gap between the exaust valves and the rocker arm. But by removing the crank locking screw and moving the piston to just before TDC the exaust valve rocker arms were at there highest point and I was able to set the gap.

I mean when I buttoned everyting up and started her she ran fine. No major clattering or binding...

Is that correct or am I crazy?? :scream:
 

jeb

Member
Jul 21, 1999
633
0
Here's a couple of pictures of my rad guards. They're from Flatland Racing. DeVol's normally say DeVol in cutout alum at the bottom.
http://pws.chartermi.net/~jejb/pictures/KTM400_front.jpg
http://pws.chartermi.net/~jejb/pictures/KTM400_right_guards.jpg

I use a flexible 1/4" drive extension from Sears to get the rad guard bolts installed. It's sort of a cable deal.
http://www.sears.com/data/product_images/tools/large/00904336000-dlv.jpg
Very neat but not good to really tighten stuff down. What I do is start them and snug them up and then use a 1/4" drive universal joint type driver to get them really tight. I use 8mm headed bolts, though, not allen. The above also worked on the DeVol's I had on my 2 strokes. Makes installing these a breeze.

The first valve adjust is the worst. They're easier after you've done it once.

Desert_racer,
You must not have been at exact TDC or you may have been on the wrong stroke. There are two TDC's for a four stroke, one on the exhaust and one on the compression stroke. You want the compression stroke one. You will be able to adjust the gap correctly on both sets of valves if you're on the correct TDC.
 

Strick

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Nov 8, 1999
1,782
2
Listen to Jeb:

Here's your answer desert racer

Originally posted by jeb
The first valve adjust is the worst. They're easier after you've done it once.

Desert_racer,
You must not have been at exact TDC or you may have been on the wrong stroke. There are two TDC's for a four stroke, one on the exhaust and one on the compression stroke. You want the compression stroke one. You will be able to adjust the gap correctly on both sets of valves if you're on the correct TDC. [/B]
 
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