Hard steering...

[powercart]

Hey guys, i went out riding today, and i noticed that my kdx was hard to steer. So i took it home and put it up on blocks and swung the bars back and forth. It seems that it is very stiff and isnt moving freely. Whats wrong, what needs to be done to fix this problem?? Thanks

Matt.

 

[23jayhawk]

When did you last service the steering head bearings?

 

[powercart]

Ive never done it, ive had my bike for almost 11 months, i guess it is time. Is this going to cost me dearly

 

[cweingartz]

Probably will not cost you dearly. The steering stem bearings do not seem to take too much abuse. You will probably just need to take them apart and grease them good, then when you put it back together you can adjust how tight your steering is by adjusting how tight you put the stem nut on. I am reffering to the nut below the triple clamp. Good luck.

 

[powercart]

Thanks guys :-)

 

[canyncarvr]

There's hertz.......

..and then there's 'not exactly'.

The top bearing is probably ok. The bearings DO take a beating....that's why YOURS is probably no good.

Most likely the bottom bearing, though. It's press-fit on the stem. Getting it off is a bit of a go. A bike shop would press the stem out of the triple clamp enough to get the space you need to get a plate under the bearing to press IT off.

Various methods have been used by DIYSers (that's Do It YourSelf-ers). Some have just pounded the thing off. I used a pneumatic cutoff tool to cut mine off.

Then, after a trip to the freezer for your triple clamp, the new bearing can be easily seated on the stem with a piece of iron pipe (1 1/8" I think it was) and a sledge. Getting the pipe threaded for a cap helps the 'sledging' part.

No beating required! A few taps with a 2 1/2# sledge will work just fine.

Take the bottom race out of the frame using a drift from the top of the tube. Tap it out carefully. Use the OLD race to seat the NEW race (after it's chill time) up inside the tube.

You do not adjust the 'tightness' of your steering by squeezing it with the top spanner nut. The assembly is adjusted as ANY tapered roller bearing is. If you don't have a manual, or are not familiar with a tapered roller seating process, please ask! There is a method to it. Don't follow it and the chance of your bottom bearing living to any nice old age is greatly reduced.

There is a chance that a cleaning/regreasing will take care of it. Unlikely. Look at the bottom race. See marks where the rollers have damaged the race? If you do, you're better off replacing the bearing. Heck......you already have it apart.

Price of the bearing? Around $30 as I recall. Cost of the local shop to replace the bottom bearing? $50.

Grease that new bearing well! Use the same grease you use to service your suspension (swingarm/unitrack arm).

??? .........You never what??

uh-oh............ :eek:

Check out CDave's site:

http://justkdx.dirtrider.net

Read the 'new bike prep' section. Do that now.....soonest.

 

[powercart]

canyncarvr, thank you very much, for the great info :)

 

[canyncarvr]

You're most welcome.

Post a question about the tapered rollers if you wanna. Basically while supporting the assy, rotate it back and forth while you tighten the spanner to just firm.....say not more'n 1/8 turn past finger tight. Just finger tight if you tend to break things alot ;). Then, while still supporting the stem by hand, loosen the spanner and RE-tighten to finger tight. The stem should move with NO resistance (don't count the cables and such on the LH side as resistance). Certainly with the forks, bars and all back on the bars should drop from side to side against the stops freely. Again..you do NOT want 'tight' on this assy.

If you wish, I'll be glad to give you the manual torque numbers. Certainly it's an inch/pounds thing.

uh-oh agin. Kamloops? Guess that makes it a kg/newton-meter thing or somesuch....

Cheers!

 

[powercart]

yea, well i have the manual specs, its jsut a little vauge, so thanks for clearing that up for me!

 

[Fred T]

I went through 2 lower bearings on my KDX in a season and a half. They feel notchy when they go -like the steering has slight "clicks" in it. Be sure once you seat those tapered roller bearings you do what "CC" says and loosen them and hand tighten them or you'll be replacing them real soon. I recommend Bel Ray waterproof grease.

 

[Tom Ludolff]

I just greased up my steering bearings to be safe on my '03 220. What a puzzle putting it back together!!! I had to disassemble/reassemble about 3 times to get everything back in place!! I was laughing at myself!! Anyway, I was pleasantly surprised that the bearings had a decent coating of green grease on them from the factory. Maybe Kawasaki has responded to the complaints?? I packed the daylights out of them with some blue pennzoil marine bearing grease. I was wondering if it would be advisable to put a grease fitting in the steering tube and pump the whole thing full of grease?? Then once a year I could just give it a couple pumps to push some fresh stuff through the bearings and wipe off the stuff that squirts out???

 

[Houndog]

I purchased a '95 200 a few months ago and it came with a grease fitting on the stearing stem. I had the stem apart to inspect and regrease and was impressed at the shape the bearings were in, it seamed like a good idea so I 'zerked' the swingarm too.

 

[Kawadougie]

The only problem with installing a grease fitting here is that you fill the steering head with about two pounds of grease! A solution is to fill the void by taking a handlebar crossbar pad and cutting it down to fit in the empty space between the bearings.

 

[canyncarvr]

Besides the large cavity you'll be filling up with grease, you'll have one heckuva mess on those 100º+ days.

 

[Houndog]

Originally posted by canyncarvr
Besides the large cavity you'll be filling up with grease, you'll have one heckuva mess on those 100º+ days.

I'll let you know how bad it is this summer :)