How can I get this bolt off?

[Steve210]

I picked up my new chain and i was puttting it on, but i needed to move the wheel in, cause the chain won't fit on how far the wheel was out. So I started to screw those bolts in that sit horizontally and push the axle out, and i screwed one in and it went in all good, but the i went to the right side, and i started to screw it and it was really hard to. I started to unscrew it now so i could see what was wrong and after about 3 twists with the wrench, the bolt snapped in half about 3mm from the head. So now i dont know how to get the part of the bolt thats still in the bike out. Is there any way i can get it out?

 

[95xr250]

you will have to tap it out.

 

[Steve210]

there is nowhere on the back to tap it out

 

[95xr250]

well is it possible to weld on another bolt head?

 

[Steve210]

that could work mabye, but i dont have a welder

 

[Steve210]

k i thought of a way, i will just screw a nut on there and then put another one and then screw the first one and it will just lock onto the second one and it will turn the bolt, i think that should work.

 

[95xr250]

sounds like a plan

 

[Steve210]

k umm yea, the bolt broke even more now, so theres like a 1mm stubb sticking out and yea

 

[IndyMX]

you will have to drill it out and either tap the hole or get a new kit to replace those bolts.

You should be able to find them on rockymountainatv.com or bikebandit.com

 

[95xr250]

you could drill a small spot on the bolt to where you can stick a nail in or something ant hit it with a hammer and slowly get it out

 

[mx4life]

go to sears and but easy-outs, follow the instructions and it should come out fine, enough jamming and hammering crap

 

[76GMC1500]

No, don't use Easy-Outs, it will just break and make your life hell. When someone mentioned tap it out, what they meant was to drill the bolt through the center, and use a tap to cut new threads. Generally, it is best to use an insert like a Helicoil as well. If that other bolt is free, remove it and coat the threads with anti-seize to keep it from locking up and breaking.

 

[Jaybird]

If he can get a drill to center up on the broken stud, then why could he not use an easy-out? It would save having to retap.

Before you try getting it out again, squirt some liquid wrench on the broken bolt, tap it many times with a wrench handle, and reapply/repeat. Let it set for a hour and reapply/tap lightly. The tapping vibration will help to get the liquid penetrated into the internal threads and will cut the corrosion, making the extraction much nicer.

 

[76GMC1500]

If the bolt is so stuck the head broke off, an easy out with a smaller diameter than the bolt is just going to break as well. I do use easy-outs, but only when I can use generous amounts of heat. I doubt he has a torch big enough to put enough heat in the swingarm to actually loosen up the bolt. Once the easy-out breaks, life gets really miserable. Have you ever tried to drill one of those out? In a situation like this, I would go straight for the helicoil.

 

[Ol'89r]

When someone mentioned tap it out, what they meant was to drill the bolt through the center, and use a tap to cut new threads. QUOTE]


The problem with drilling it out is you can't get a straight shot at the broken bolt. Have you actually ever done this GMC?

There are a couple of ways to remove your broken bolt. First, understand what happens to cause this. Usually it is oxidation from the inside of the swingarm caused by water or moisture in the swingarm itself. Using hot water to wash your bike can cause condensation inside the swingarm and corrode the steel bolt to the aluminum threads. The part that sticks into the inside of the swingarm is most likely heavily corroded on the threads.

Once the bolt becomes corroded, it is almost impossible to remove it using traditional methods. There are two ways to remove it. First, take it to a shop and have someone tig weld or wire weld a nut on the exposed part of the broken bolt. Heat the area around the bolt and work the bolt back and forth until it loosens up and then back it out. Also, soak it in a penetrating lube as Jay suggested before taking it to the shop. Usually, just the heat from welding the nut on is enough to loosen the bolt.

If that doesn't work, your bolt is too corroded and you will have to have it removed using a EDM, (electronic discharge machine). Check in your phone book for an EDM company. They can disintegrate the steel bolt with the EDM without damaging the aluminum threads. They are not that expensive compared to the price of a new swingarm.

Just my $ .02

 

[VintageDirt]

When you finally get it out and everything is back to normal, make sure you loosen the axle nut before attempting to adjust the chain.

 

[76GMC1500]

Jobber length drills are long enough to give you a straight shot on the bolt. Hey, don't some Kawasakis have removeable ends on the swingarm? If that's the case, you can just remove the whole assembly and have access to back side of the bolt.

 

[Ol'89r]

GMC.

You didn't answer my question. Have you actually ever done this?

On an open-ended swingarm it is possible to drill the adjuster bolt. The KX85 uses a closed-end swingarm. Granted it is not as closed-in as say a CR or a YZ swingarm but, it is closed-in enough to make it hard to drill out the bolt. Also, if you were to have to install a heli-coil, it makes it hard to get the installation tool in straight.

Also, due to the length of a swingarm, it is difficult to jig it up in a vertical mill or drill press. This means you have to drill it by hand if it is accessible at all. Drilling it by hand is a crapshoot and the chance of drilling it off center is very possible. Once it is drilled crooked or off center, you will have big problems.

I am not here to argue with your methods GMC. I only try to share my experience on things that I have actually had hands-on experience with. I have used the weld-on nut method many times with excellent success. Take it for what it's worth.

 

[Bunya]

Also, due to the length of a swingarm, it is difficult to jig it up in a vertical mill or drill press.

Actually, it's pretty easy with a decent angle plate. But somehow I doubt he has a Bridgeport or a good quality drill press in his garage. It's pretty clear that this is going to be beyond his means to do at home.

It can be drilled by hand with an ordinary drill provided there is enough room to drill it straight and you have the skills needed to center punch it on center then keep the drill straight. I've done it many times. If a longer bit is required, the common supply houses (J&L, Enco, MSC, etc.) all carry extra length bits. Before drilling, the bit should be inspected and reground if it's not correct. It's not uncommon for even brand new drill bits to be incorrectly ground. If the flute lengths aren't even, it's going to drill off center and potentially cause a problem. If you can't get to it straight, I'd mill out the rear of the swingarm for the required clearance then weld it back up after the bolt was removed.

Steve, your best bet is going to be taking it to someone with the skill and equipment to properly remove the bolt. Wire EDM is an excellent option, but I think it will be cost prohibitive. Ol'89r is right - heat is the key. If it's really frozen, multiple cylcles of heat then rapid cooling will help break it free. I'd try calling some local shops for help. It doesn't have to be a machine shop, any decent car or bike shop should be able to remove it for you without damaging the threads. As others have mentioned, soaking it in a good quality penetrating oil such as Kroil or PB Blaster will also help. I know I'm going to upset some folks here but WD40 does not qualify.

Lastly, anti-sieze is your friend! I use is extensively on just about everything and I never have a problem afterwards. For high heat applications like exhaust manifolds, you need to use a lead based anti-seize. The regular stuff just doesn't hold up to the heat.

Marc -

 

[MasonW947]

Haul your bike to a local mechanic and have him weild a bolt head to it.

 

[Kx_rider]

same thing has happen to me and i didnt have a long enough drill bit and it went off centre, i also need a longer bit i cant get it alll the way drilled thro, i couldnt get it out with an easy out already tryd. do you guys thing i could but a heli coil in?? im in a vary small town with Limited options

 

[rpm12505]

Haul your bike to a local mechanic and have him weild a bolt head to it.

YIKES. You have better local mech. than we do. I wouldn't trust most to change a tire around here.

Listen to ol'89r he' dead on

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

I have 2 swingarms with seized bolts also. I am still wondering about the edm cost, and who has 1 locally. I did run across a smoking deal on a new complete swingarm! Anti seize and routine maintenance, this does not happen. The bolt is too long to attempt to drill out, walking off into the aluminum is easier. And even with heat, an easy out will likely break. All to do over, bring on the heat first! The second you notice its a little too snug, and before the head snaps off. Of course welding a head back on works also. You want the aluminum to expand more than the steel bolt, Yet the heat will help the corrosion to flake off the bolt. Vintage Bob

 

[mathd]

Use a dremel with a cutting wheel, cut a line in the center of the bolt to unscrew it using a flat screwdriver?
I done this on my front fork once, take a little while but worked better for me thant easy-outs wich broke in the bolt...
Am pretty sure in your case that the bolt do not hang out far enough or the area is unreachable with the tool :(

So, i say go to a shop so they can use heat or re-weld a bolt head to remove it.

 

[eagles22793]

i would just drill it out and use a heli coil to replace the treads that were in there