How do I make my GG WP forks plusher?

T-Bone

~SPONSOR~
Feb 10, 2001
155
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I have a 2001 Gasgas 200 and I LOVE the bike but I find the forks harsh , they did seem to tuck in so I went from a 41kg spring to a 43 and they do seem better but now I here that I should put 2.5 wt oil in the forks but Im worried about the rebound coming back too quick and Im wondering if revalving mite be a better Idea.

I ride on the westcoast and weigh about 175 lbs
 

GlennP

Member
Jun 6, 2000
311
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T-Bone,

The '01s are valved lighter than the '00s, probably better for east coast conditions. Let them break in for 200 miles or so. I weigh 170-175lbs., and .43s seem way stiff unless you see a lot of air. It sounds to me like you need more low speed compression damping to keep the fork up, or maybe have too much rebound damping dialed in holding the fork down? I've had good results with the 2.5wt in the rocks, but rebound does speed up, and you loose adjustability range on the clicker for sand and whoops.

Another point. The XCs steer really fast. You can eaisly oversteer the bike with too much input. When I went from my 300EXC to my GG, I was steering into the woods before the cornesr at first. What I did, that I really like, is change the linkage pull rods from 122mm to 123mm. This will drop the rear slightly and take the edge off the steering, but it will still turn under anything except an RM. The bike is also very stable at speed, so for open west coast stuff, this may be the way to go. You can always change it back in 5 minutes.
 

clw

Member
Dec 29, 2000
239
0
Hey Glenn:

What rider sag distance have you settled on? Dealer recom'd 4 1/4 -4 1/2" which, coming off a Yamaha, sounds like a lot. Thanks
 

GlennP

Member
Jun 6, 2000
311
0
That is a lot. I run 100 mm race sag, and the forks raised to the first line(about 3mm). If you find the steering too quick, go to 105mm max or get the 123mm pull rods. Another way is to have the Gold Series shock travel shortened 5mm. This is a good if its out for revalve anyway. Either way was recomended by Drew of WER.
 

clw

Member
Dec 29, 2000
239
0
Plush-Yes, bottoming resistance-NO

T-Bone: Before you change your oil just try speeding up the fork rebouind a click or two and see if that takes away the harshness. The stock valving is very soft, sounds like you may be too deep in the stroket.


Pounded my brand new XC250 on Sunday and found the overall GG setup to be quite plush, what it lacks IMHO is the ability to firm up deep in the stroke. Big sand whoops and even small jumps are ugly. Metal to metal bottoming! Sore hands, etc.

Anybody know what the stock oil level is in the XC (American) versions? And the range that's OK to adjust in? Standard spring rate?

Thanks
 

GlennP

Member
Jun 6, 2000
311
0
Check your oil level. Most of the time the "hydro stops" should stop harsh bottoming. I have mine at 150mm (standard spec). I'm not sure of the max level off hand, but its in the small WP manual you should have gotten with the bike. The springs are rated at .42 Nm, which is about .426 kg/mm. Stock, my '00 was a sand racer, but brutal in the rocks. Your '01 valving is probably similar to my '00 with WER rock valving (light). I'm 170lbs. , run .41 kg/mm springs and use mostly all my travel in big whoops, but rarely bottom.
 
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