If anyone can help please do!!!!!!

XREnduroKid

Member
Jan 10, 2001
61
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I just bought a '01 KTM 250 E/XC. It has 102 miles on it now and is starting to run a little slower instead of opening up. I have never owned a 2-storke before this so take it easy on me. There is tons of black spooge running out the spark arrester and when ever the rpm's start to get very high, maybe 3/4 up, it gets all garbled. It's ok if it's WOT but when the engine catches up with all the gas going in it startes to stumble. The dealer told me that i will need to lean it out because it comes to rich from the factory. What do i need to change in the jetting, how much and should it spooge like that? Also, what else needs to be done to finish breaking it in, besides, changing oil, clean air filter. Thanks
 

fremontguy

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Jul 1, 2000
580
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Welcome to the wonderful world of Ktm jetting:scream: I've been trying to sort mine out since Nov.,and I'm sure in the end it will be worth it. I don't have any specific 250 tips but if you look at your manual it should show stock jetting etc. I would invest in some leaner jets, move them down one step at a time and lower the needle(by raising the clip:) ) 1 clip at a time. I think your supposed to use 1 whole tank of gas at rich settings to breakin, then lean it out and ride. My .02$.
 
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yarbonwick

Sponsoring Member
Mar 7, 2000
674
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Firstly, let me say that the servicing air filter part isn't due at break in. It's due all the time. Anytime it's very dusty, anytime you're gut says so, anytime after a race- if you race. The air filter is the most important part for longevity. Now that we've got that situated, CONGRATULATIONS!! Great bike.

Secondly, take the silencer off! Get a FMF Turbine Core II or FMF powercore II or other favorite. The stock silencer will always spooge. I don't care what anyone else says about that. I've had mine extremely lean with NOZI needle and more and it still spooged. One I changed it, it stopped. So that's that, you'll never convince me otherwise. The suspension has about another hundred before it's completely broken in so leave it alone for now, then set sag and clippers.

Thirdly, the jetting is overly rich. I'm not sure what to recommend because all though I know where state is, I have no idea what it's like. So we need more. I can tell you that here I use a NOZE needle, 42 pilot, 172 main 93 octane with great results, though my plugs have always, always looked rich. Even when it was overly leaned with race gas mixture.

Fourthly, check everything-EVERYTHING for tightness. Get rid of the clamps on the radiator hoses for screw-types, take off the enduro fender unless you like paying $70 + bucks for it, wear out the Bridgestones then get better rubber, more to follow I'm sure.
 

Jaybird

Apprentice Goon
LIFETIME SPONSOR
Mar 16, 2001
6,452
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Charlestown, IN
fremontguy,
You do mean by lowering the needle one clip at a time to lean it out, you also mean raise the clip to make that happen. Yes?
Not trying to critique you, but it may be why you are chasing your tail on the jetting. Moving the CLIP down will richen the carb, moving it up will lean it out.
Sounds like you know this, just don't want to confuse XR. :)

XR,
I too think you are prolly way rich. Take a little ride and open it up real good once it's warm. Don't putt around much after gettin in it pretty good then kill it and take out the plug. Take a good look way down inside of it, don't pay much attention to how it looks up top. Use a flashlight even. You want a light-ish tan color down on the insulator. If its real black, go a little leaner.. smaller main, and raise the clip one and try it all over again same way. DO use a fresh batch of the fuel that you will always use. I go 40:1 on my oil because I'm way lazy and it's easy to pour a pint into a 5 gal can of fuel, no measuring.
I wouldn't sweat the spooge yet, once you get your jetting comfortable it may go away. <cough> errr... most of it.
 
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XREnduroKid

Member
Jan 10, 2001
61
0
I'll tell you where...

I live in Nebraska but do almost all of my riding in western Iowa. It varies all year from about 50 - 95 F. The elevation here is right around 900 - 1100 feet. I do almost all tight trail stuff but some open roads and fast trails. I still want most of my power on bottom but i cant let it garble on top. My dad's got a 400 E/XC and i can't fall TOO far behind. I just need an all around jetting. Which i assume once you have it set right it will be good for anything. Thanks
Also, what all needs to be tightened during break-in, everything?
Thanks
 

BigStoppy

Member
Mar 6, 2000
24
0
1999 250EXC

Runs great a 1000ft with a 170 main, clip in the middle, 42 pilot, stock slide and needle. Works superbly at 7500-12000ft with a 160 main and one down from center on the stock needle.

And, I might also suggest, if you can, disassemble all major bearing systems like the steering head, swingarm pivot, and grease the bearings thoroughly. They come greased from the factory, but this will ensure you will get the longest life out of 'em.

On fasteners, remove all 8mm bolts (except for engine case bolts) and apply a drop of Loctite 242 and retighten.
 

ROADRACER

Member
Oct 7, 2000
45
0
Hey XR,I have a 99 250 EXC and the carb is set as follows:#6 slide, 85c needle with the clip in the 2nd clip from the top, 45 idle jet and a 175 main jet.
I ride in the midwest in mostly tight woods but i've also had this bike to Phoenix and Moab Ut. and have never fouled a plug and it has great throttle response.I get some spooge but the bottom line is that it runs good.I mix 93 octane with golden spectro however I am going to try Silkoleen. Once you get the getting right you'll be very happy with the bike and you won't have to mess with it after that. Good luck
 

Pumpkinhead

Member
Mar 6, 2001
65
0
Check this out.

http://www.holeshotforum.com/cgi-bi...orum=Jetting&number=6&DaysPrune=20&LastLogin=

This forum is particular to KTM's jetting only. Alot of good suggestions here. I would add that when making jetting changes it is best to make one change at a time. Example....moving clip on needle up or down a notch. Or changing the size of the main jet.

If you make more than one change .....ex: going up on the main and increasing the clip position....it can make it very difficult to narrow down what needs to be done.

Also- a one clip change up or down...or a main jet change up or down one size would not result in any negative problems with going too lean (possible seizure) as long as you pay close attention to your jetting change after riding. Drastic jetting canges could lead to problems.

Keep it simple, it's a working progress and you will understand it better in the long run.

Also check out this link for more general information.

http://eric-gorr.com/twostktech/carbtuning.html
 

Gardener

Member
Jul 28, 2000
139
1
Contrary to what Yarbo says, you can jet out the spooge with the stock exhaust. The NOZx series needles are junk. Straight taper needles are the answer. My jetting spec. is 175 - 42 - 1.5 - 1366N(CGG) 3rd. - #7 - 3500' - 6000', Opti-2 60:1- 65-75degress. I get NO SPOOGE. There is very good KTM jetting info on Holeshot's board. My 300 used to spooge like an oil well with the NOZx, #6 slide combo. Thanks to James Dean and Strick, it's reborn.
 

yarbonwick

Sponsoring Member
Mar 7, 2000
674
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Where did you get the 1366N(CGG)? Don't you still get spooge when lugging? The reason I ask is on Holeshot you said "with small amount of spooge only when when lugging through tight sections...Could possibly still be a little rich just off idle but overall plug checks look good. " Are you still getting 40 miles to a tank? What did you do to alleviate that? Also aren't you using a #7 slide? What might work on a 300 may not work on a 250 that the poster has. Not to mention you're waaay up there in the 3500-6000' range. That's over a mile high!
It's my understanding that 300's are even worse for jetting?
 
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Gardener

Member
Jul 28, 2000
139
1
I purchased mine at Cycle Works in Edmonton Alberta. Checkout http://www.keihin.com/ click on distributors. I've read of people on this board using Sudco for needles. Another must is a #7 slide, at least for my altitude. I have a friend with an identical 300 as mine using identical jetting but with #6 slide (stock in '00) NOZI top clip, what a mess. I am not sure of the validity of this but I've heard that a full synthetic premix oil may not be the best choice for the larger bore KTMs'. I believe it was something to do with the temperature of combustion being lower than a small bore that's constantly on the pipe FWIW - probubly not much. The Opti-2 I use is 100% petroleum based. I too have heard that 300s' can be a jetting challege.
 

yarbonwick

Sponsoring Member
Mar 7, 2000
674
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Just be careful XRE. This can get quite addictive, except for the $6-$8 needle testings.
 

380EXCman

Sponsoring Member
Sep 15, 1999
721
1
Yep make one change at a time. Try moving the clip on the needle first.I always ran my bike a little fat on the main and never had problems with it clearing out.

I also never switched slides. I think some of you guys need to spend less time playing with your jetting and more time riding. And if you repacked your silencer as often as you played with your jetting you would probably never have spooge problems. If you plug your silencer when ever you wash your bike and repack your silencer every 10 rides or so you will never have a "spooge" problem.

XR if you can get your bike to clean out on top, have decent throttle response and not foul plugs all should be fine. Just ride the darn thing.
 

Gardener

Member
Jul 28, 2000
139
1
Yarbonwick I missed some of your q's.

At the time of posting on Holeshot's board, the bit of spooge I did get must have been left over in the exhaust system. I am not getting any now. Don't the 250s' come with a 6.5 slide in '01? If so, I wouldn't bother changing to a 7. I'm not sure how much diff. 1/2 mm would make, but a 6 to 7 made a noticible difference in cleaning up the midrange on my 300. The slide I bought went for $85 CDN - needles are obviously less. Yes, what works for me may not work for XRE. What should help is a little research on what needles for what altitude on this and that other board will save him or her a little $$$ and clean-up a spoogemobile.

The best fuel economy I've been able to get is right at 70K (44 miles). I've done everything I can think of to get better fuel economy (float,jetting) but that's the best to date. 100 miles on a tank blows me away.
 

XREnduroKid

Member
Jan 10, 2001
61
0
Anyone?

Anyone else with same conditions as me please post your carb settings.
I ride tight trails, with some open, about 1000', 70 - 90 F usually.
Thanks guys, i gotta get this done before next saturday though.
 

TexKDX

~SPONSOR~
Aug 8, 1999
747
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Kid,

Sounds like you need to hook up with Tim Hadley. He's local up your way. He was living here but just moved back home to NE and rides in the areas you described.

BTW, based on what I know about your and Yarbo's area, I'd say his jetting specs would be a great place to start. Yarbo will have higher temps most of the time but the humidity will help correct the difference and make you run a little leaner than him since he sounds slightly rich (not a bad thing to be BTW).

As far as working on the carb, you are blessed 'cuz the KTM's carb is easy. I'd pull the tank and seat the first time as it makes it easier. Once the thing is out, the main and pilot are easy. The needle is a bit tougher because of the return spring. I strongly recommend you find a friend who has worked on the Keihin carbs before to help you the first time. It is not hard to do the jetting change, but it is easy to mess things up - bend the needle, bang the float, etc.
 

DAMAGEinc

Member
Jun 18, 2001
6
0
new to the forum but....

All of the suggestions are good ones change out the stock exhaust and just hold off on the suspesion ride it for a couple months to break it in. I still ride mine and love it wouldn't trade it for a new one, it fits like a glove :cool:
 
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