Linkage

[91KDX]

Howdy,
I was wondering if there was any kind of trick to getting the bolt that holds the linkage to the frame out. I have been trying for over an hour now, with no luck. I got the nut off just fine, and the bolt turns a little rough but not enough to keep it from coming out. Can the bolt be bent enough to wear it wont come out??? I soaked in in PB blaster so I will leave it set over night and we will see what happens tomorrow. Is there anyway I can get like a socket extension in there, (at a decent angle) so I can try and beat it out??? Also I was wondering what kind of grease do you guys recomend using on the linkage bearings, and how do you tell if the seals are shot??? When a bearing doesn't turn smoothly/or at all, after it has been soaked/cleaned in kerosene then it is shot, right?? Thanks for the help, in advance

Ben

 

[wibby]

Here's how I did it : http://dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?p=651383

 

[motorider200]

I had the same problem and i had to pound mine out and i mean really pound on it. I put the the nut on a little and used a broke socket wrinch as a rod and hammered it back and forth(with a big hammer) spraying it with alot of WD-40. I remember being thrilled when it finally moved like an 1\16 of an inch. It was a little awkward to pound on because you can't get a straight shot at it you have to hit it at an angle. I also had to buy a new nut and bolt. I would recommend getting a kit that comes with new seals and bearings. Good luck, Braden

 

[91KDX]

Howdy again,
I got the bolt out today. I sprayed it down with penetrating oil and then I the bolt until it move a quarter inch. I then too a screw driver and used it as a pry bar and pryed it all the way out. I didn't get a chance to see why it didn't come out, but I think the main problem was that it had no grease on it. Which reminds me, does anyone recommend any special kind of grease?? thanks for the help

ben

 

[Dogz]

Hey There, I use Castrol lube. Can't remember the actual designatin, Its not lithium or black moly though. We get it in 50 gallon drums, I figure if it can stand the loads on a 5th wheel, and all our backhoes, excavators and dozers my truck and anything else I have greased in the last 5 years it will work on my bikes, I tear down my suspension quite often I have no wear and have never had to replace ANY component of the rear suspension in my 92 250. You can get the same stuff in tubes at any auto parts store.
Any grease will turn to polishing compound if you don't do regular maintenance, Always replace the grease. The reason you grease heavy equipment so often, like every day! is the new grease being pumped in pushes out the old that is full of abrasive grit from diggin or whatever. Think about the environment our rear suspensions live in! Whenever I come home from a ride you can't tell what color the bike is from the muck. Now you grab you pressure washer or garden hose and blast the dirt right past the seal and into the pivot points while your "cleaning your bike"!
SOrry for the rant, not implying your guilty of any of this but soooo many of my riding friends don't know how to wash a bike and there constantly replacing stuff h*ll they'd be better off leaving the bike dirty. Most of them could be broke and still have more money than brains!

 

[canyncarvr]

Nice trip down memory lane there wibby, but 91kdx was talking about the front rocker bolt, not the swingarm pivot pin. ;)

re: When a bearing doesn't turn smoothly/or at all, after it has been soaked/cleaned in kerosene then it is shot, right??

At least that. Even if it cleans up it may still be shot. If it's that gunky you're better off replacing it than messing with it.

What grease? Aha! Glad you asked!!

I won't give you the whole sermon here, but believe it when I say the general purpose chassis grease you use in your automobile's ball joints is a waste of time.

I've not had the luck dogz has had with the kdx suspension. I've greased mine as often as four times a year and never found the bottom shock mount bearing alive and well until I tried some hi falutin' synthetic stuff from Hydrotex. Parasyn70.

Well, the new name of it is Hydrotex Hydrosyn 70. It's good stuff. It works!! It's also about $10 a tube.

FarmerJ nutted out a source for the stuff...he and I split a case of it! I've got enough grease to last me 'til I'm croaked of old age (ok....maybe even longer than a couple weeks!) even if I ever get to wibby the two tubes he wants.

Point is...use the best you can get. If dogz has had good luck with and recommends a type...go for it. A good number of riders have had good luck with BelRay marine lube. That would be available at any boat shop I suppose...I've seen it in the local bike shops.

If you happen to have an chance to try some Hydrosyn70...try it.

Better check your swingarm, your wheel bearings and your steering stem!


The reason it was stuck was no grease between the bolt and the sleeve. Or corrosion had already done damage. That is not the bearing surface, but still, give it a good coat of grease when you put it back together. If you end up replacing the bearings you will likely (should, anyway) replace the sleeve(s) too.

Individual prices will kill you from kawi. Try a kit from maybe pivotworks or some other vendor of choice. CBR is a good source for wheel bearings. They have a 'lifetime' wheel bearing kit that comes with seals. Of course, they are not really going to last a lifetime..but word is (I've not tried mine yet) when it comes time to replace the CBR lifetime bearings they don't hassle you about it.

I'm about due for my first 'warranted' replacement set...........

 

[91KDX]

Thanks guys,
Since I dont have a catalog right here in front of me, can any of you guys tell me if the pivot works kits come with new sleeves in the bearings kit? Or do I have to order a new kit for that too?? And is it a real big deal to check and make sure all of the bolts are straight, and not bowed?? In the manual it says to check the bow in the bolts with a specials tool, but wouldn't a straight edge work for that too?? I know a straight edge wouldn't measure the bow, but it would tell you that the bolt is bowed. Thanks for the help soo far, I am going to try and get my bike back together before the weekend. I think I am going to try and run the Morrison hare scramble again this year. Good thing I am on Spring break, I have all the time in the would to work on my bike!!!

Ben

 

[wibby]

Nice trip down memory lane there wibby, but 91kdx was talking about the front rocker bolt, not the swingarm pivot pin. ;)

Well, excuuuuuse me! (gotta say it like Steve Martin) :eek: :joke:

Shoot, that was an easy one to get off!

 

[canyncarvr]

Kits come with sleeves, including the pivotworks sets.

A straightedge will meausure 'bow' just fine. Use a feeler guage under the high point.

You're excused. ;)

 

[JasonWho]

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[91KDX]

Thanks everyone, I went through the linkage and swing arm bearings, cleaned them all up and greased them really good. I am going to have to get the singarm bearings kit for sure. I was wondering if I could get just the seals for the linkage with out buying them piece by piece. Regreasing everything was not as hard as I thought it would be. Next time I wont hold off on doing it.

Ben

 

[wibby]

regarding the seals:
Go to www.buykawasaki.com and retrieve the part numbers

Then plug those #'s into www.ronayers.com

It usually take them a week and a half to two weeks to order factory parts but the price is definately right!

 

[canyncarvr]

No reason to replace the seals each time you service the suspension. Reuse them until they have a problem...lip worn off or damaged for example.

Clean them and fill them up with grease, too......right?

 

[91KDX]

Thanks,
I cleaned and grease the inside diameter of the seals. Some of the seals are warn and need to be replaced, but not all, and I just assume buy the seals instead of the whole kit.
Thanks for the help

Ben

 

[JasonWho]

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[canyncarvr]

Yes, if it's just seals you are after you can get them separately..... from kawi. An outfit like pivotworks doesn't sell just the seals (well, not that I've ever seen).

As jason says, seals will fail if the bearing beneath them fail. In which case replacing either without the other will result in another failure.....sooner than later.

If it's just a matter of servicing a relatively decent bearing the seal will often be fine.

In some cases (like the bottom shock mount) it doesn't matter WHAT you do....it's going to be goobered most of the time. Heck, a brandy new bearing from kawi for that position is a piece of junk from the gitgo! The needles are crooked (too sloppy a fit) to START with!

Bearing surfaces don't (bear loads) when said surfaces are crooked. It's kinda hard to roll a straight pin further on one end than the other, 'eh? ;)

 

[jssport]

I just completly rebuilt mine (90 E2) and I'm very glad I did. The linkage wasn't too bad and even had some original factory grease in there but the swingarm was toast. I used pivot works kits (they come with everything) for the linkage and the swingarm but don't buy the shock bushing kit. Only the bottom shock mount uses a bushing, the top is a rubber mount and they don't really go bad. I used Kaw parts for the lower bushing.

This was all based on coversations with by Jeff Fredette, he also said to use Kaw OEM bearings and seals for the steering stem bushings.