oil & water mixture + studdering power band

[windsormw]

I found a white mitxture in gear box . Would u belive that the coolant had little to no oil in it .

belive it ! So i pulled motor , split right side case and inspected . Everything looked good , My only concern is the water pump seal . It looked ok ( springs were there ) , concern was the journal on the water pump shaft . It looked like it had had friction burn from the seal , acctually it wwas particularly shiney in two spots of the journal ( assume from the garter springs ) .

Could below zero temps cause this seal to fail ? my biike was in the ol'mans SHOp and over the winter it got cold in there .

I can't think of no were eles were the coolant would mix with the oil , beside the gaskest of course .

So like the fool i am i reassmbled the bike & took her for a ride , Its kinda hesitating ,,,,,sort of like , the power valve is jumping up & down ( like a hookers pants on pay day ) .

My question is

1 . is there anywhere the coolant could mix with the oil

2. anyone had these types of symptoms before

I am no stanger when it come to taken this thing apart , just could use some feed back

thanks all

 

[TimberPig]

The only way for the coolant to get into the gear oil, is through faulty water pump seals or a bad waterpump housing. From your description of the pump, it sounds like your waterpump shaft and seals are done. The pressure built up in the cooling system during operation will easily allow coolant to blow past the waterpump seal if it is failing. I'd suggest you tear it back down, and rebuild that pump with fresh bearings, seals and replace the waterpump shaft as well, as it sounds like it has been damaged (the wear you saw will = leaks).

The hesitation you are experiencing could very well be clutch slippage due to the contaminated oil.

 

[MOTOX888]

If you have clutch plates that are aluminum it will make the oil turn a greyish/white color. But usually aluminum clutch plates are an OEM part. Do you have the stock clutch in it still???

 

[windsormw]

the basket is alum. but plates are stock


If slippage occurs dur to contamination , i would think that a wet clutch like that would perform almost the same ( if not better ) due to contamination of coolant . The low viscosity of the oil would promote more " positive contact " than slippage .

When i crack the throttle , the power band jumps until the rpms build( then it will function properly ) . Slippage is a good point tho , because the slippage would actually be over working the motor and cause the RPMs to drop ( thus dropping the actuator & the power valve ) and the valve would open intermittenly until the RPMS ( back pressure ) were great enough to support the valve .

Thats all fine & dandy , however , the bike never gave me these symptoms until I to took it apart today & re-assmbled . It had been leaking before and never any PWRband issues .


thanks for the input , and changing shaft , seal & bearings were already inthe works . Any ideas on how to get the water pump bearings out with out the suzuki specialty tool ?


thanks again

 

[TimberPig]

You probably messed up the powervalve governor in pulling the waterpump apart. You're going to want to make sure it is correctly assembled and functioning properly.

Often you can heat the housing and it loosens the fit of the bearing, and it can be pushed out. I'm not 100% familiar with your bike, as I've never worked on one, but normally you can get the bearings out with a little caution and ingenuity. If not, you may have to get the puller. Just don't try too hard and damage anything.

 

[windsormw]

just got off the phone with dealer

I **** a miata when he told the price of the puller $2000 , that is not in the budget. I will keep u posted , thanks for all ur help

the bike is only 5 years old and i am going to tear down and inspect the bearings , I assume that they will be ok , but is it posible to get seal out the frontside wwithout removing bearing ? I would assume so ........but that is the beauty of this site ( education through peer interaction )


thanks timber

 

[TimberPig]

Unless it is a special manufacturer only tool, that Suzuki doesn't intend for retail sale (and hence no MSRP on the tool, only a price to the dealer) I think someone is marking the tool up to a ridiculous level trying to get you to just bring the bike in. It might be a special tool, intended for use on only a few models, but for that kind of money it had better be gold plated and encrusted in diamonds.

You should be able to find a puller from an automotive application that will pull that bearing, for much less than that, as such pieces as their waterpumps and alternators use a similar bearing setup.

I'd feel better replacing the bearings myself, just to ensure there is no slop and that they are fresh. If you do try to reuse them, make absolutely sure there is no slop whatsoever between the bearings and the case, or the bearing to the impeller shaft. The oil seal is replaceable from the outside, but backs up onto the bearing, so be careful not to damage the bearing pulling the seal, if you intend to reuse the outer bearing.