john hubbard

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Feb 23, 2003
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I just received my RK X-Ring chain and replacment sprockets for my 02 KDX 200. On the instructions it states that for a clip type link that you should "use a press-fit tool, not vise grips." Please tell me they're kidding? Back in the day, I only used non-o ring chains. Vise grips, and ocassionally a hammer and chisel were all that required back then. Bottom line--do I really need this tool or can I use the old school method...much thanks for your answers in advance...late..John
 

john hubbard

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Feb 23, 2003
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Jaguar, thanks. I'm too tired and it's too late to deal with it tonite...i'll see if i can get around to putting it on tomorrow...One more question, I take it, that after grinding the link pins you ended up using vise grips to fasten and secure the links?
 

Jaybird

Apprentice Goon
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Mar 16, 2001
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Charlestown, IN
John,
Don't grind anything off of your master link pins, that is a mistake and won't help a thing.
The chain is the very same chain as a standard but it has added o-rings that take up some of the space. You can use channel locks to squeeze the plate onto the link until the clip grooves are exposed, then slip the clip onto one pin. Slide the clip over untill it reaches the other pin. If the other pin doesn't have the groove exposed past the plate, then you can sqeeze the very end of the plate untill you can see groove. Set the forks of the clip into the now exposed last groove and you can use the plyers to seat the clip the rest of the way placing one jaw on the first pin and the other jaw on the back of the clip and giving a slight squeeze. Be careful not to pinch your fingers when doing this.
 

CaptainObvious

Formally known as RV6Junkie
Damn Yankees
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Jan 8, 2000
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I use a 1 inch C clamp. Fits great and works like a charm.
 

john hubbard

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Feb 23, 2003
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Jaybird and RV6Junkie, thanks. I appreciate your response!--John
 

Jim Crenca

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Mar 18, 2001
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I have to disagree with much of the above.
I just installed an RK Xring and they have engineered an interfenece fit between pins & plate. I started to use a C clamp but decided that I'd spring for a $12 tool rather than hurt a $60 chain. I believe that this design is stronger than a clearance fit, although I can't ever remember breaking a chain on a dirt bike.
The real issue is how do you replace a missing master link in the woods.
I've packed old Regina links & clips in my fender pack for that occasion but am thinking that this chain may stay together even if clip comes loose, which is something that KDX riders should consider as aftermarket (Fredette) guide bashes clip pretty often.
These guys did some pretty good engineering & manufacturing; I recommend you install it their way :thumb:
 

john hubbard

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Feb 23, 2003
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Hey thanks Jim, hope to see you on the trail soon!--John
 

XRDadKDXBeni

Member
Aug 27, 2002
46
1
A quick fix for those who need to replace a master link in the woods; we all know how the difficult the "press fit" on the side plate is to work with when re-installing a master link. The special tools sold for this purpose have a groove in the body to allow the pressing on of the plate without over compression (or damage) to the o-rings. As an alternative to carrying along the special tool or being very careful with other tools to accomplish the task, we have taken a few extra side plates and drilled the existing holes out ever so slightly to accomodate ease of installation. Find a drill bill that barely fits the hole, (I can't remember which bit I used - I just went to my bit index and found one that did not go into the sideplate hole) drill through and presto!...the sideplate goes on a whole lot easier and still works fine. We have many miles in muddy woods on an XR200 with this set up and so far have noticed no reliability issues. XRDad
 

canyncarvr

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Oct 14, 1999
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Yeah, you can use the channel lock/pliers method. That's taking a bit of a chance. Quite honestly, considering some of the input on this forum regarding broken fork studs, broken seat bolts etc...it's iffy recommending a tool that CAN damage the chain.

You likely have a chain breaker? You can use that to seat the side plate. It has a large enough bearing surface that mangling it is unlikely. Don't over compress the joint. Keep in mind that the pins may well push out of the inside plate in the process.

Do keep an eye on your master link clip. While aftermarket chain guides may improve the issue (wear of the clip), it will still happen. Well, unless you keep your guide blocks pristine, anyway. During the life of the chain, you will likely replace several clips.

re: predrilling the spare side plates

That's a good idea!!
 

RodC

Member
Apr 11, 2001
13
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I keep the extra sides off of chain that I removed to shorten chain. I keep some 428, 520 ect. If you stack 1 or 2 on top of the master link side you are trying to press on, that will keep the pin of the link from interfering with your c-clamp or vise grips or your channel locks. Only the inner most side will actualy get pressed on, the others will fall off. I have put 10+ o-ring chains on like this with vise grips, never lost a master link yet.

Just ease it down and dont tighten it like a plumer. Just go far enough past the grove to get the clip on, if you go to far you will be putting too much pressure on the o-rings and I have see master links frozen because of this.
 

BRush

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Jun 5, 2000
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I must be missing something here :silly: . I'm on my second RK X-Ring chain and I've never found putting on the master link to be a big deal. Special tools? Vice grips and a nut. Put the nut over the pin (where it will protrude though the side plate), then use the vice grips to squeeze the back of the master link and the nut over the front. Alternate between the two pins of the master link until the groove that the clip fits in is showing, then install the clip with a pair of needle nose pliers. On the trail? Just carry a nut and a small pair of vice grips in your fanny pack.
 
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