I have trouble hitting ruts and staying in them throughtout the whole turn. I try not to look down at the rut, but I have a hard time making myself look out ahead. It's pretty frustrating with the way the track has been wet and rutted up here lately. Are there any other tricks to dealing with ruts?
Ruts
- Thread starter Seth_88
- Start date
Lawndart D
Member
- May 24, 2001
- 51
- 0
this works for me....
try not to force the bike through the corner.
i lighten up my grip on the bars and let the bike follow the rut.
good luck and happy landings
Lawndart Dave
try not to force the bike through the corner.
i lighten up my grip on the bars and let the bike follow the rut.
good luck and happy landings
Lawndart Dave
- Mar 8, 2000
- 1,993
- 7
I have this same problem.
The one thing that I have found to help me alot is to lightly drag the rear brake. This causes the front tire to stay in the bottom of the rut, allowing me to look farther ahead.
I struggled with this very thing for years until a friend of mine, who has a few gold medals from the ISDE, told me how he would drag the brakes. I thought he was nuts, until I had a stick wedged in my rear brake pedal at a muddy cross country race. Ever since then I drag the brake when I'm in ruts.
The one thing that I have found to help me alot is to lightly drag the rear brake. This causes the front tire to stay in the bottom of the rut, allowing me to look farther ahead.
I struggled with this very thing for years until a friend of mine, who has a few gold medals from the ISDE, told me how he would drag the brakes. I thought he was nuts, until I had a stick wedged in my rear brake pedal at a muddy cross country race. Ever since then I drag the brake when I'm in ruts.
I have lots of problems in ruts too. The rear brake trick would work for left and turns but what about right handers when your foot is off the peg? I have to practice more I guess.
KawieKX125
~SPONSOR~
- Oct 9, 2000
- 946
- 0
Eye issue; You should ideally look at the rut and at the approaching track.
Turn issue; I have a totally different approach to this though, the right wrist. I just took a gary semics class and I specifically asked him about dragging the brakes in a rut. Here is his answer and it works very well;
Front: This brake servs one purpose, to slow the momentum of the bike. You should NEVER use it is a rut. If you HAVE too, that means the bike is not leaned over far enough, lean it flatter. If the bike is going low, turn the throttle more(ie, go faster).
Rear:This brake controls the attitude of the bike and the front wheel position. Again, you should never use it when you are accelerating out of a rutted turn of any turn for that matter. Use it to guide the front wheel into the rut. Dragging the rear brake approaching a rut wil make the front wheel pull in and back and give it a better bite making the trip into the rut more accurate and fast. When turning, the BALL OF YOUR foot should be pressing on the outer peg. If you so this properly, there is no possible way for you to use the rear brake without moving you foot. If your rear brake is set up properly, while sitting you will not be able to brake and keep your foot on the peg at the same time.
I listen to these techniques as they come from a famous trainer, but it all really boils down to 2 things; The bike is not leaned over far enough, or tyou are going too slow for the lean of the bike. Using the brake in a turn to keep the bike put is indicative o anoter problem that must be fixed. Also, dragging the brakes while accelerating is a really good way to wear them out.
BTW, his(semic's) techniques are awesome. Sice returning, I have increased my speed alot and I can ride for HOURs straight without tiring, not to mention I no longer look like I have a goon riding style.
Turn issue; I have a totally different approach to this though, the right wrist. I just took a gary semics class and I specifically asked him about dragging the brakes in a rut. Here is his answer and it works very well;
Front: This brake servs one purpose, to slow the momentum of the bike. You should NEVER use it is a rut. If you HAVE too, that means the bike is not leaned over far enough, lean it flatter. If the bike is going low, turn the throttle more(ie, go faster).
Rear:This brake controls the attitude of the bike and the front wheel position. Again, you should never use it when you are accelerating out of a rutted turn of any turn for that matter. Use it to guide the front wheel into the rut. Dragging the rear brake approaching a rut wil make the front wheel pull in and back and give it a better bite making the trip into the rut more accurate and fast. When turning, the BALL OF YOUR foot should be pressing on the outer peg. If you so this properly, there is no possible way for you to use the rear brake without moving you foot. If your rear brake is set up properly, while sitting you will not be able to brake and keep your foot on the peg at the same time.
I listen to these techniques as they come from a famous trainer, but it all really boils down to 2 things; The bike is not leaned over far enough, or tyou are going too slow for the lean of the bike. Using the brake in a turn to keep the bike put is indicative o anoter problem that must be fixed. Also, dragging the brakes while accelerating is a really good way to wear them out.
BTW, his(semic's) techniques are awesome. Sice returning, I have increased my speed alot and I can ride for HOURs straight without tiring, not to mention I no longer look like I have a goon riding style.
Read the Fine Manual:p
Seriously - pedal height can (and should) be adjusted. The most common set up is to have the brake pedal level with the foot peg across the top of both surfaces.
Add to that the distance it takes to actuate the brakes...
The pedal can be set up to the proper height, but if you are low on brake fluid, have worn pads, or old brake lines, then you will have to press down further to actually start braking. Thus requiring that the foot leave the peg to brake (or some other weird contorted position that makes for bad form).
-jeffd
KawieKX125
~SPONSOR~
- Oct 9, 2000
- 946
- 0
The only time that your foot should be on both the peg and the brake pedal is when braking while standing. While sitting down, you must lift your heel off the peg to brake and use your whole leg, not just your foot to modulate the brake effectively. To set the pedal up, lean back while standing and see if you can get FULL braking power. If not, raise it accordingly. This is all explained in the gary semics videos #2 and #4. They are good if you want to learn a wide range of techniques.
BullDog KX125
Member
- Mar 9, 2001
- 76
- 0
so when standing the arc of your foot should be on the peg, and the ball on the break?
that would make since so when you jump you doint have to take your foot off the peg to bring the front end down.
is the #3-"The art of jumping and whoops" vid from gary semics worth the money?
or have you not seen it?
what video would you guys recommend for a beginnner?(i already purchaced the book, and it helped alot)
that would make since so when you jump you doint have to take your foot off the peg to bring the front end down.
is the #3-"The art of jumping and whoops" vid from gary semics worth the money?
or have you not seen it?
what video would you guys recommend for a beginnner?(i already purchaced the book, and it helped alot)
Objection your honor
While sitting down, you must lift your heel off the peg to brake and use your whole leg, not just your foot to modulate the brake effectively.
Na na na ....Do Not Sit while braking, thats wrong form..
Do your braking Before your turn that way you can be accelerating through it, you will have better controll of the bike.
Yamamoto leaves the bench.
While sitting down, you must lift your heel off the peg to brake and use your whole leg, not just your foot to modulate the brake effectively.
Na na na ....Do Not Sit while braking, thats wrong form..
Do your braking Before your turn that way you can be accelerating through it, you will have better controll of the bike.
Yamamoto leaves the bench.
BullDog KX125
Member
- Mar 9, 2001
- 76
- 0
i sit when i break slide, i shouldnt do this?
i tried to stand and break slide one time. boom
=]
i tried to stand and break slide one time. boom
=]
Yamamoto is correct. Many riders fid it easier to negotiate a turn by getting on the gas just as they enter the turn, as oppossed to wainting until reaching the apex. The application of throttle acts as a means of getting the bike through the turn faster and easier then waiting until you reach the apex. This is especially true with a bike that offers a smooth and easy power band. Granted on slick, flat or off camber turns, such a tactic must be carried out with some prudence or you will know what its like to ride speedway
BullDog KX125
Member
- Mar 9, 2001
- 76
- 0
i cant whip the bike around when im standing, i've tried several times.
and through turns
break
on gas
acceleration
hard acceleration
you stick to the ground better that way
and i only fell outta the bed 1 time, and i fell back to sleep on the ground =]
i literally fell, woke up was like, woah, then felol back asleep in about 2 seconds
and through turns
break
on gas
acceleration
hard acceleration
you stick to the ground better that way
and i only fell outta the bed 1 time, and i fell back to sleep on the ground =]
i literally fell, woke up was like, woah, then felol back asleep in about 2 seconds
S
Saratoga
You should have the ability to use all controls standing or sitting. Or even in the process of moving from standing to sitting. You do this by pivoting your ankle to the side case and working the toe area to depress the brake pedal.
It is good technique to do all your braking before you start turning but sometimes you want to drag your rear brake at the entry of the turn overlapping it with throttle.
It is good technique to do all your braking before you start turning but sometimes you want to drag your rear brake at the entry of the turn overlapping it with throttle.
