What you'll want to do is place your bike on a stand, rear wheel off the ground, and measure from the rear axle to a fixed place, probably like where the rear fender meets the subframe or thereabouts. This is your starting point (topped out). Take the bike off the stand and take the same measurements, this will be your free sag or static sag. With all of your gear on (for weight purposes) and the help of a friend, sit on the bike ( I always stand on the pegs) and take the measurement again. The difference between the topped out or starting point and the race sag will be your measurement. Adjust it by turning the collar on the spring of your shock.
btw, setting the sag is the 1st thing you should do to the bike as it affects every aspect of handling. If you change anything in regards to chain adjustment or raising / lowering the forks in the triple clamps, you'll need to check the sag again.
I personally measure sag from the axle to the edge of the rear fender. First measure the distance with both wheels of the bike on the ground and no kickstand or bike stand being used. Then with full gear on stand on the pegs in a normal riding position then remeasure. The difference should be around a hundred mm. You will need some assistance in checking your sag.
I believe typically that the adjusting screw on shock resevoirs adjusts the compression dampening. The small screw at the bottom of the shock should be rebound dampening. I THINK that turning them in clockwise slows shock travel.
Roger
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