Steering stem bearing replacement.

Fark

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Aug 12, 2002
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OK, got the steering apart, the upper bearing: peice o cake.  :thumb:   The lower bearing: peice o sh!#@.  :flame: :moon:   How do I get the lower bearing off of the stem?

My service manual just says "Remove the lower bearing."  Next to it's a pic of a hammer and punch.  I'm using a screwdriver with no luck.  It's soaking in penetrant.  Should I heat it up?  An easier method?

 

 :think:
 

Fark

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Aug 12, 2002
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OK kids. I got it. For the purpose of the search engine, let it soak for 15, re spray, soak again for 15 more. Keep wacking. Something will give :D

Rock out.
 

bscottr

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Sep 20, 2001
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Originally posted by Fark
Keep wacking. Something will give
You are correct, something will give. :|

For the proper method click here, it also includes bearing/stem installation. :thumb:

BTW: I don't think we want the search engine to find the "wacking" method.
 

jmics19067

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Jan 22, 2002
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bearing separators are very nice also that way you dont have to remove the stem. In a pinch I remove the cage and rollers and grind down the inner race paper thin in two spots. Your judgement and steady hand are critical in making sure you don't nick the stem,then you can break the race off.

You can use a piece of pipe and a hammer to drive the bearing back on as long as the pipe only contacts the inner race and you support the steering stem, dont just set the triple clamp on the ground, rest it on a small piece of hardwood or something so you know the stem itself is stopping the force from above. Put the triple clamp/stem in the freezer and warm up the bearing with a hair dryer. Do not use a torch , do not turn that bearing <or any bearing> blue
 

Fark

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Aug 12, 2002
438
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Originally posted by bscottr

You are correct, something will give. :|

For the proper method click here, it also includes bearing/stem installation. :thumb:

BTW: I don't think we want the search engine to find the "wacking" method.

&nbsp;

Well, the problem lies in that my search returned no useful results.&nbsp; Where was that link before?&nbsp;&nbsp; :p
 

Fark

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Aug 12, 2002
438
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Jmics, that zip code of yours is close to mine. Where ya from buddy? And thanks everyone for the info.
 

Fark

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Aug 12, 2002
438
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JMICS I'm south west of Philly. Right by the airport. Isn't it funny how no one is ever from NW philly? SE is obviously the DE river.

Bscott... teach me how to freaking search. I've tried a crap load of different word combos and I'm not misspelling. I never come up with results when I search and the 30 sec rule really pisses me off to.
 

Fark

~SPONSOR~
Aug 12, 2002
438
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JMICS. How about you come down with your bearing separator and I'll buy you dinner and a beer. I'm about to start grinding... :think: I know I can do it but it's nice to have the right tools. I'll even pull the motor so we can place the frame upside if necessary.
 

bscottr

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Sep 20, 2001
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Originally posted by Fark
teach me how to freaking search. I've tried a crap load of different word combos and I'm not misspelling. I never come up with results when I search and the 30 sec rule really pisses me off to.
The 30 second rule is due to the demand a search puts on the servers. Imagine sorting through 421,531+ posts to find a few keys words, hard hit on bandwidth. It wasn't very long ago that we had a 60 second interval between searches. 30 seconds is a huge improvement. :thumb:

The key to a good search is to use as many (within reason) key words as possible. The other thing is to insure that you are searching in the correct area (forums). Most often you'll want to search in the same forum that you would post your question. Notice in the below pic that I searched in the Help / Advice, How To and Performance Forum. Another good place to search is the Technical Posts forum. Hope this helps.

Good Luck,
Scott
 

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jmics19067

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Jan 22, 2002
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Originally posted by Fark
JMICS. How about you come down with your bearing separator and I'll buy you dinner and a beer. I'm about to start grinding... :think: I know I can do it but it's nice to have the right tools. I'll even pull the motor so we can place the frame upside if necessary.


ok now I am confused there should be no reason to flip the frame ever to remove the bottom steering stem bearing<cone>. That would be the only place that the bearing separator would be needed or could even work. Are you talking about the races<cups> that are still in head tube of the frame? Those I use a hammer and a thick punch that is in good shape. you want to catch a corner of the race with the corner of the punch<difficult since they are both round?> and give it a tap. 1/2way across give it a tap, if you try and smack it hard with a hammer the only thing you are going to do is ruin the tip of your punch. As the race is working away from the shoulder and you can get a better bite you can smack it harder with the hammer.


does dinner include my family?:) In all seriousness if you would want to pack up the bike and bring it up here I would be more than willing to help you .It would have to be during the day or the weekend though for me to change the races here at my house. The bottom bearing on your stem I would have to bring to work at night and use their bearing separator and press. Like I said I would be more than willing to help you on your bike but it is going to cost you a lot more than a dinner for me to drive down 95.
 

Fark

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Aug 12, 2002
438
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Nah no prob man!. Prolem is there is like 1mm to bite on the seat of the race. I already got the actual bearings out, i'm talking about the races at this point. Like I said theres only like a 1mm ring to hit with a punch and hammer. Does that resemble your bike? THanks again.

AND BTW I was looking at bearing separators and was wondering how the h--- they'd get the races out. LOL Sorry for the confusion.
 

jmics19067

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Jan 22, 2002
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Originally posted by Fark
Nah no prob man!. Prolem is there is like 1mm to bite on the seat of the race. I already got the actual bearings out, i'm talking about the races at this point. Like I said theres only like a 1mm ring to hit with a punch and hammer. Does that resemble your bike? THanks again.

AND BTW I was looking at bearing separators and was wondering how the h--- they'd get the races out. LOL Sorry for the confusion.

yeah thats the devil aint much to bite on that is why I say to use a punch that is in good shape and to tap it . if you just smack it hard you are going to make a lousy center punch out of your tapered pin punch. If you happen to see a snap on or mac tools truck or possibly a good automotive parts place that sells tools <not like pep boys that caters more to shade tree mechanics but like napa that would cater more to the professional> There is a special punch that they sell that is designed for knocking out bearing races. instead of being round shaped like an O at thetip it is shaped oval like an 0. You might be able to get a better bite but again small taps and patience otherwise you just ruin the punch. they do come out but you will be there for a bit either by ruining your punch making it more difficult to get a new bite or saving your punch and only moving it a few thousandths at a time.
 

bscottr

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Sep 20, 2001
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Fark,
The picture below shows how to modify a punch for bearing removal. It will work well for the steering stem bearings as well as wheel bearings. Just ensure the punch you buy and modify is long enough to reach through the steering stem and hubs, at least 12”, 14-16” is even better (the one pictured is shorter and used for demo purposes only).

Good Luck.
 

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Fark

~SPONSOR~
Aug 12, 2002
438
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Thanks a bunch BSR and J. I saw the pic in Eric's book that suggested that. Definitly my next course of action. Off to the Depot!
 

Fark

~SPONSOR~
Aug 12, 2002
438
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All good to go. Front end is back in, wheels trued, new tires, almost ready to roll!

Thanks again troops.
 

Fark

~SPONSOR~
Aug 12, 2002
438
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Yeah man, you guys are great. Just a few small issues and we are ready to ride! j, are we hooking up this spring or what?
 

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