SoFlo said:I've currently got a 165, 52, and second clip right now. It runs great I think, but it's fouling like a madman.
sick 96 250 said:hey man, i'm pretty sure you should have a keihin carb on there and not a PJ or maybe it is a mikuni(sp?). Pull the head still. Take out the carb, drain the rad fluid and its only like 10 bolts to pull that sucker off. did you ever get a manual for that bike, it helps wonders. If you need a gasket set for a new top end i believe i still have one somewhere in my garage as well. It is prob just a worn piston causing everything, when my piston was worn no jetting would solve the problems, it may temp the situation but it always came back with problems. You need to pull the head anyway, you may not need the cylinder bored or plated, prob just a piston and ring will do you good. Check the auction website for a piston, can be had very cheap on there. Then its only about a 2hr process to put the new one in if you have the MANUAL!!!!! Good Luck
SirHilton17 said:really... Thats cool
Umm.. i dunno.. maybe you can do that on all bikes.. but im not sure, ive always split the cases and done the mains and whatnot...
If you cant get to the other sides seal you should just split the cases.. cause it is worth it to do both seals at once, it can save alot of time later on!!!
TimberPig said:Kawasaki's are the only manufacturer that requires the cases be split to change seals. Honda, Yamaha, and Suzuki can all have the seals changed without splitting the cases.
To pull the clutch basket, you will either need a clutch holding tool or an impact wrench to pull the basket, as it will spin when you try to remove the retaining nut. The same will be true for reinstallation. Other than that, it is pretty simple, and not much more involved than changing a clutch out, as its only 1 step further.
SoFlo said:Anyone have any clues as to how the engine is running by looking at these pcis? Does it looks like it fouls plugs like crazy, or is burning tranny oil?
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