I have been riding mostly woods and I am running the stock sprokets and a D.I.D. 520 ERT Gold Chain. Well this past weekend we rode Mill Creek in Arkansas and the damn sproket came apart no teeth left on it... and the chain, well let's just say it's a little loose (side to side). Anyway I am going to purchase new chain and I wanted to get something that works good in the mud but doesn't rub everything ( frame, swingarm..etc...). Please let me know what you are using and how you like it. Also what chain lube do you prefer?
What chain for woods?
- Thread starter cyoung450
- Start date
I recommend the DID 520ERV2. This chain is the same as a 520VM with the exception that the inner links are gold plated as well. A little less friction and it has x-rings for durability in the mud. It is intended as a top of the line road race chain. Cost is a little higher than the VM but I think it's worth it.
Use Silkolene or Maxima Chainwax for lube. I've heard good things about the Honda lube but I would guess it is a rebranded product(probably Silkolene). :aj:
Use Silkolene or Maxima Chainwax for lube. I've heard good things about the Honda lube but I would guess it is a rebranded product(probably Silkolene). :aj:
I would also suggest a ring chain. Try to keep a better eye on it that you did the last chain. No way you should ride one long enogh for the t4eeth to wear out.
And, stay away from the wax. It's the worst thing you can use.
I don't think Silkolene produces any solvent fluids. Why would you think Honda products are rebranded Silkolene, chasejj? Good reports, it must be wax?
And, stay away from the wax. It's the worst thing you can use.
I don't think Silkolene produces any solvent fluids. Why would you think Honda products are rebranded Silkolene, chasejj? Good reports, it must be wax?
Jaybird,
Knowing how the industry typically works, I would assume that Honda is not in the business of formulating chain lube. I think it is a reasonable asumption that Honda buys the stuff and rebrands it after passing any tests they may apply to it. Silkolene was a guess because Team Honda has used that brand in the past.
I was using Chainwax previously and did notice it got a little dry in off raod conditions. I just started using Silkolene to see how that holds up. This chain lube debate can be never ending. You should see how varied the opinions are in the Mountain Bike world.
Knowing how the industry typically works, I would assume that Honda is not in the business of formulating chain lube. I think it is a reasonable asumption that Honda buys the stuff and rebrands it after passing any tests they may apply to it. Silkolene was a guess because Team Honda has used that brand in the past.
I was using Chainwax previously and did notice it got a little dry in off raod conditions. I just started using Silkolene to see how that holds up. This chain lube debate can be never ending. You should see how varied the opinions are in the Mountain Bike world.
Hey guys,
I would suggest the following for good chain maintenance: Clean Chain in Simple green, brush with an old tooth brush, hose off with water. After chain is back on the bike, spray with silocone spray (heavy duty) for chain penetration/lubricant and then "seal" the chain with the Belray super clean. I was originally using the Belray as lube, but after taking the chain off the bike, it was a stiff as a cobra ready to strike, after I removed the chain. I realized the Belray was not lubing, butI like the "sealant" properties of the stuff. Try it guys, my chain now falls down when its off the bike, before the cleaning.
See yea :D
I would suggest the following for good chain maintenance: Clean Chain in Simple green, brush with an old tooth brush, hose off with water. After chain is back on the bike, spray with silocone spray (heavy duty) for chain penetration/lubricant and then "seal" the chain with the Belray super clean. I was originally using the Belray as lube, but after taking the chain off the bike, it was a stiff as a cobra ready to strike, after I removed the chain. I realized the Belray was not lubing, butI like the "sealant" properties of the stuff. Try it guys, my chain now falls down when its off the bike, before the cleaning.
See yea :D
My 2 cents ..
1. Stock sprockets suck. Go with a good sprocket and keep an eye on it. Change when the teeth get thin. Steel? Front, yes. Rear, I like Renthal aluminum. Ever hold a rear steel in one hand and an aluminum in the other? HUGE weight difference.
2. Chain: anything o ring or x ring. Won't stretch much and last a long time.
I change chain and sprockets once a year. I race D36 enduro's and never have problems (mostly woods up here in NoCal).
3. Chain lube: used to use Rock Oil and liked it, but damn, it's messy. Recently changed to Chainwax and the jury is still out (though not sure it protects enough). I like "Speedway"s suggestion above though I wonder whether the Belray will stick to the chain if there's already silicone spray on it.
1. Stock sprockets suck. Go with a good sprocket and keep an eye on it. Change when the teeth get thin. Steel? Front, yes. Rear, I like Renthal aluminum. Ever hold a rear steel in one hand and an aluminum in the other? HUGE weight difference.
2. Chain: anything o ring or x ring. Won't stretch much and last a long time.
I change chain and sprockets once a year. I race D36 enduro's and never have problems (mostly woods up here in NoCal).
3. Chain lube: used to use Rock Oil and liked it, but damn, it's messy. Recently changed to Chainwax and the jury is still out (though not sure it protects enough). I like "Speedway"s suggestion above though I wonder whether the Belray will stick to the chain if there's already silicone spray on it.
There isn't as much to worry about with o-ring chains as you might think. You mainly just want to keep them from getting really dirty, as dirt will force it's way inside the o-rings, which is where all the 'good stuff' is. No chain will ever actually stretch. Ever looked at a side plate? No way those are stretching. what happens is the rollers become worn and mover around more, making the chain look stretched because there is more slack. Semantics..I know. Just get a good chain and sprockets and pay reasonable attention to them and they'll last a very long time.
I owuld go with an O- or X ring chain. I installed my first O- ring chain (Renthal O-ring) and i am very very happy as to how long it is lasting.
i have gone through muddy conditions and dry conditions, and it is still looking and lasting good. would def reccommend this product. Just remember when you install a new chain, put in new sprockets also, other wise you will have pre-mature wear.
Marc
i have gone through muddy conditions and dry conditions, and it is still looking and lasting good. would def reccommend this product. Just remember when you install a new chain, put in new sprockets also, other wise you will have pre-mature wear.
Marc
Chains, as does any other metal, can and will stretch. But usually this stretch will take place during a brief break-in period. Once intial elongation of the plates takes place any addtional changes in length can be attributed to wear at the friction surfaces.
The rollers will wear against the bushings, but the major source of growth is from wear between the pins and the bushings inside diameter.
There is no argument when factual data is available. If you do happen to check out a chain mfg's sites you will find that several mfg's are now "proof-stretching" chains during build to eleviate the intial elongation. In other words, they are placing approx. 60% of the ultimate strength on a length of chain...this stretch should settle in any elongation that can occur.
Silicone is a very poor choice for lubricant, eccept for maybe on your cables.
Using chain wax to seal in any lubricant is a waste of time.
Chain wax is great, however, for sealing in bigger things like sand, dirt, grit....etc...
The rollers will wear against the bushings, but the major source of growth is from wear between the pins and the bushings inside diameter.
There is no argument when factual data is available. If you do happen to check out a chain mfg's sites you will find that several mfg's are now "proof-stretching" chains during build to eleviate the intial elongation. In other words, they are placing approx. 60% of the ultimate strength on a length of chain...this stretch should settle in any elongation that can occur.
Silicone is a very poor choice for lubricant, eccept for maybe on your cables.
Using chain wax to seal in any lubricant is a waste of time.
Chain wax is great, however, for sealing in bigger things like sand, dirt, grit....etc...
Guys,lets do some math. :scream:
Lets for discussion sake assume that chain links are made of some pretty tough stuff say SAE 4340 drawn@ 400deg F. That material has a yield strength of 260,000psi. You should go into a metals lab and put a 260Ksi load on a sample. There is NO FREAKIN WAY a measily little motorcycle motor generates enough torque at the countershaft even under the worst conditions to pull that kind of load or even half of it. :think:
So lets just say when you mention stretching /prestretching or whatever in reference to a chain. You are really just discussing the tolerances and wear & tear on the huindreds of pivots inherent in a motorcycle chain. Chain links DO NOT STRETCH. :uh:
If manufacturers are doing any "prestretching"(that word must be some marketing guy's idea of a joke) that would be applying a load in production to "seat" in all those pivots so that you don't put that new chain on and go bananas when you have to readjust it after a 5 minute ride. :aj:
Lets for discussion sake assume that chain links are made of some pretty tough stuff say SAE 4340 drawn@ 400deg F. That material has a yield strength of 260,000psi. You should go into a metals lab and put a 260Ksi load on a sample. There is NO FREAKIN WAY a measily little motorcycle motor generates enough torque at the countershaft even under the worst conditions to pull that kind of load or even half of it. :think:
So lets just say when you mention stretching /prestretching or whatever in reference to a chain. You are really just discussing the tolerances and wear & tear on the huindreds of pivots inherent in a motorcycle chain. Chain links DO NOT STRETCH. :uh:
If manufacturers are doing any "prestretching"(that word must be some marketing guy's idea of a joke) that would be applying a load in production to "seat" in all those pivots so that you don't put that new chain on and go bananas when you have to readjust it after a 5 minute ride. :aj:
Dr. chasejj,
It's a fact that the metal elongates. The "proof-stretching" process has been done for a while in other areas of chain use as well. Specifically roller chains used on conveyors and precision machinery.
The load put on the chain during the proofing does not have anything to do with what the end use of the chain can or will produce. It simply is the tension needed to "seat" if you will, the metal.
Yes, any growth from the strecthing of the metal will be minimal at best, but it is there. Since there is no freakin way the bike will even create close to ultimate strength of the chain, we shouldn't have any growth due to elongation. The whole point of the process.
The hardness of the pin and bushing faces tend to not let them compress under great load, and since there is no factory burrs like on a cast part, there is virtually no seating of the links themselves that takes place other than what is reffered to as the "initial stretch" of the plates.
It's a fact that the metal elongates. The "proof-stretching" process has been done for a while in other areas of chain use as well. Specifically roller chains used on conveyors and precision machinery.
The load put on the chain during the proofing does not have anything to do with what the end use of the chain can or will produce. It simply is the tension needed to "seat" if you will, the metal.
Yes, any growth from the strecthing of the metal will be minimal at best, but it is there. Since there is no freakin way the bike will even create close to ultimate strength of the chain, we shouldn't have any growth due to elongation. The whole point of the process.
The hardness of the pin and bushing faces tend to not let them compress under great load, and since there is no factory burrs like on a cast part, there is virtually no seating of the links themselves that takes place other than what is reffered to as the "initial stretch" of the plates.
MTRIDER,
Just say NO to drugs.
Just say NO to drugs.
Just my .02...
If you go with an O-ring chain make sure that you check the clearance behind the countershaft sprocket. I stopped using them when I found significant case wear from chain rub. :| I realize this is bike dependant...but you still need to check.
Scott
If you go with an O-ring chain make sure that you check the clearance behind the countershaft sprocket. I stopped using them when I found significant case wear from chain rub. :| I realize this is bike dependant...but you still need to check.
Scott
SFO
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- Feb 16, 2001
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I discovered the bike master parts unlimited brand prepackaged o-ring chain.
EK o ring chain for 50$.
I have always been a regina guy but was converted after running this chain on my big bore yz-f 1400 wfo miles of baja with only one adjustment.
It works, its cheap and I run so many different gearing combos that I need a chain for each set up.
EK o ring chain for 50$.
I have always been a regina guy but was converted after running this chain on my big bore yz-f 1400 wfo miles of baja with only one adjustment.
It works, its cheap and I run so many different gearing combos that I need a chain for each set up.
