Where does the factory case splitting tool mount?

[reepicheep]

I am splitting my cases this weekend... got the flywheel off with the cheap tool from Dennis Kirk. And I got a harmonic puller that looks perfect for the job from Pep Boys (cheaper and better then the kit they had at harbor freight). I'll have to weld a couple bolts to get the right threads, but thats easy enough. I'll post pictures.

My question is to verify where those bolts anchor. From the service manual, it looks like the puller bolts into the two stronger "webbed into the case" stator mounting points on either side of the crank. These are fairly small fine thread holes, but do have good support on the case. I kind of expected a bigger hole, but I don't see any other threaded holes in the area that could be used.

I wanted to make sure I have the right ones before I go "splitting" things :)

 

[glad2ride]

The stator mount holes are correct.

Be sure to grease the thread ends and use something to keep the end of the crankshaft from getting marred.

 

[reepicheep]

Thanks!

 

[reepicheep]

Whoo Hoo! Split just fine. A little heat with a propane torch around the crank area on the case made it all drama free.

The Pep Boys puller worked fine, but I had to weld some 5mm threaded rod to larger bolts that go through the puller. Again, not a big deal. Total cost for the puller and the rod was under $20.

I'll post some pictures later... Now to go find out for sure if my carefull cross referencing of Kawasaki part numbers was right or not... if they are, the transmission I bought cheap on ebay for the 1990 KDX-200 is 90% the same as the transmission for my 95... If not, another expensive lesson in being cheap ;)

 

[glad2ride]

What's wrong with your 1995 transmission?

 

[reepicheep]

The previous owner must have run the wrong kind of sprocket... the splines on the output shaft are stripped. My bike is splineless ;)

As it turns out, the crank seal on the stator side was leaking anyway. Which dissolved a good bit of the stator glue, and it was coming apart and wearing. So the cases had to be split anyway.

 

[reepicheep]

Just to update the thread for the archives...

You also need a "bearing splitter" to get the bearings off the crank. Moose makes what looks to be a nice one. I picked one up at Harbor Freight that was a little big, but after grinding on it for a while it worked fine.

Now, how the heck do you get the new bearings in the case and on the crank without hurting them?

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

You do realize this issue has been covered, 5~10 times a year? Have the crank and the bearings in the freezer for a couple hours. Heat the oven to its lowest setting, 170 degrees f or so. Turn it off and put the cases in there for 5 minutes, till it sizzles a drop of water. The case can be heated with a torch or heat gun also. Bearings and seals do not like going in crooked, neither does the bore. They make special tools that match the OD of the outer bearing race, this is where you drive them in with a hammer till its fully seated. If you improvise with a socket, make sure its clean! Do not put the seals in till it cools. Lube the seals and bearings with what ever oil it will be using, my 2 strokes get 927 and the f's get the tranny oil. Drive the seal in till its chamfer meets the chamfer of the bore. Driving them in too far is trouble! Most engines cases can be drawn together with the screws, I really hate hitting the crank with a dead blow or whatever to seat the crank in the right side. Float the crank between the cases, and tighten the screws. Or take a large c clamp on each end of the tranny, the engine mounting faces, and evenly draw the cases together. Save the last little bit till you torque the screws. After the rotor and drive gear are installed, check that the crank is centered with a feeler gauge. A lite tap with the dead blow should move it pretty easy.

 

[glad2ride]

Thanks for the reply on the splines.

 

[reepicheep]

Thanks for taking the time to write that nice clear summary foxforks, I appreciate it.

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

Just do not forget about the previous posts. This is where my deductions have been altered. Search in the technical archives. And its there from leaders in dirtbike technology second to no one on this planet. I am still trying to fathom some of Professor Blair's incredible input. This is one of many reasons I enjoy/addicted to this site. Your very welcome, from a guy who just loves dirtbikes!

 

[glad2ride]

Who is Professor Blair?? I am all about good reading!

 

[_JOE_]

Do a search for "professor blair", there will be plenty of reading for you.

 

[porterdog]

Do a search for "professor blair", there will be plenty of reading for you.

"Invalid User specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the webmaster"

 

[glad2ride]

Are they doing the "no searching without paying" thing again?

 

[reepicheep]

OK, just finished digging through many (but not all) bearing and case splitting threads... Good reading for sure.

So here is my synopsis of the steps I plan to follow:

1) Put the crank and crank bearings in your deep freezer (in separate zip lock bags). Wait until they are really cold (i.e. over night).

2) Clean the case bearing insertion points really carefully. Take the case halves, without any new seals installed, and put them in the oven.

3) Heat the case halves up... a few values have been thrown out for heat, 212 deg F and 100 deg C are common... heat them till water boils on their surface. 212 seems reasonable, as those seals should survive boiling water.

4) On the KDX-200, it looks like the crank seals have to go in between the bearings and the cases, so they have to go into these hot cases. If you wait until the last minute, at least those seals don't have to sit and bake in the oven... and if you work quickly you are about to stuff frozen bearings near them as soon as you stuff them in the hot cases.

5) Pull the bearings (not the crank) out of the freezer, and drop them in the cases, carefully lining them up straight. They should just about fall in. If you must tap, only tap the outside bearing race only, you don't want to "dent" the races with the balls.

6) Put in the rest of the seals, transmission, etc.

7) Find some sort of chunk of metal that can be used as a slug (I think this is an Eric Gorr tip), and heat it up. Drop this into the bearing race in the side of the case you are working with. The idea is that it heats up the bearing without overheating the seal. There is probably a fine line here... and I suspect working with "still hot" cases would probably help.

8) Take the frozen crank out of the freezer, and slide it through the the bearings on the clutch side of the case. Work quickly, you want the crank to stay cold.

9) Repeat with the stator side of the case, snugging everything down.

10) Determine if the crank is centered in the cases (I'll have to see if the manual gives tips on this). If it is not, it is hopefully seated too deeply on the clutch side, and you can "pull" it back to center using the same case splitter tool you used to originally split the cases. That seems wiser then "whacking it with a mallet", which seems (to me) to run the risk of bending the crank assembly... though either way you will stress it somehow. I guess this would also be a good thing to do while the crank is still cold and the case is still hot.

11) Look over and discover the washer you forgot to put back on the transmission assembly, then go drink.

(Beware the above directions, I reserve the right to revise them when I look at the manual and actually try doing it...)

 

[glad2ride]

You may want to use something to keep the crank aligned during assembly.

Don't forget the sealant between the case halves. No, a huge glob of silicone is not correct. :-)

 

[reepicheep]

Aaack! Thank you! That would have occured to me right about the time I started putting the bolts in to button the case back together, and therefore would have been done badly.

I would ask if Yamabond / Hylomar is the right stuff, but I better check the archives first, or risk another scolding ;)

 

[reepicheep]

See! It was there:

You are looking for ThreeBond 1194 Gasket Sealer, which is a direct replacement for:

*
Threebond 1104 (Discontinued because of hazardous chemicals)
*
Honda Bond
*
YamaBond 4
*
Suzuki 99000-31010
*
Kawasaki Bond 56019-120

http://www.threebond.co.jp/en/produ.../1100/1194.html

Thanks to Rich Rohrich in this thread:
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=158709

I also saw:

Permatex Ultra Grey Sealent

Recommended... The code words to look for appear to be "non drying sealant" or "semi drying sealant".

Apparently, the Kawasaki stuff is pretty pricey...

 

[_JOE_]

You're doin' a fine job!

Way to put the many useful threads around here to good use.

When are you gonna put it together?

 

[_JOE_]

http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=67001


http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=66902&highlight=professor+blair



Those oughta keep you busy for a while.

 

[reepicheep]

Indeed! That'll keep me reading for a while.

I believe I am *almost* at apogee... almost done taking things apart, and ready to (gasp!) put things back together. Eric is finishing the top end this week, a new (used) shock is on the way from ebay, and it looks like the 1990 transmission output shaft will swap over nicely to my 95.

All it takes is time, money, and a little help from my friends... :)

At least I can say I saved a KDX from the brink of a grave... poor thing...

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

Nice work indeed! A lot of engines center themselves when the right crank end is put together properly. That collar on the right side, and the drive gear is the correct spacing, usually. And yes, the case splitter can push the crank over easily. No spec, just make the gap the same. Suzuki is good for having the right seal in the inside of the main bearing, hate it. Honda sure is not. Do not gouge the gasket surface removing the old sealant. I think they have a spray remover, I like dragging flat scraper, not pushing. The slug is a killer idea, Eric is the man. Glad2ride, google Professor Blair on the internet. I can not help you with the search engine here, its like magic? And, not a scolding at all, just shared information.

 

[glad2ride]

Thanks for the info. I have seen that name before, now that I see more info.

 

[reepicheep]

I was smiling when I said the scolding part.

I'm on the other end of the equation on one of the Buell forums, so I understand both sides of the problem... It gets really tedious to talk about the same topic over and over, but it can be really frustrating for somebody new to try and get a specific answer to a specific question using the search. They aren't sure how to ask the question, and have a hard time recognizing the right answers. And sometimes, you have to be talked into the truth. You can do it with just search, but it is time consuming and frustrating.

Ultimately, I just look at it as a win - win, especially with Buell. I've answered the same stupid question over and over and over, but have made a lot of really neat friends and met some amazing people. It's been a great investment for my time.

So thanks again to people here for the welcome and the help... I'll pay it back. I am learning far more about a KDX-200 then I *ever* intended, that's for sure :)