xr600 won't start?? what should I try first??

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#1
Well I have had my first problem out of the xr600 I bought. It has worked fine and I was just riding one day and then I shut it off, then the next day, went to start it and nothing. I kicked for an hour. I figured I had ruined the spark plug, bought a new one, but nothing. Gets no spark at all. What should I try and check now? All yea, its a 1997 xr600.
 

Uchytil

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#2
Try disconnecting the kill switch (button) at the wire connector. After that look for loose wires, pull apart the push/pull connectors and check for corrosion, check the spark plug boot connection to make sure it's connected to the wire. If all that leads no where you may want to take it in unless you r a mechanic like me. (Could be the key switch also - if it has one) Good luck!
 

Grady

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#3
Can I say 'Ya shoulda bought mine' now :moon: I still have it, ya know!

Just Kidding, Are you SURE there is not any spark? try seeing if the coil is sparking by using a screwdriver in the cap and rest it near some metal.

Check the wires coming from the stator also.
 
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#4
Yea, shoulda bought it. As for spark, one hundred percent sure, tried every test on it, even the hold it in ur hand and take the shock like a man when someone kicks her over, except no shock after 10 kicks. I am going to check the wireless coming out of the stator tomorrow for any voltage when kicked over. If there is none there, we know its in the stator or wires coming off right?
 
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#5
jabroni1m.

Check your pick-up coil. It is the small square coil on the right side next to the crank. Over time and with a lot of heat, they can crack and allow oil to get inside of the insulation. You can check it at the wires coming out of the case with an ohm meter. Check your manual for the proper values.

Or, you can remove it and check to see if it appears cracked or overheated.

Just my $ .02
 
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#6
There are 3 wires coming out of the alternator thingy (thing on left side of bike under big round circle piece), and I have hooked a voltmeter up to every combinatoin of those wires and kicked it over several times but the most volage I have read was .001 and I think that was luck or error on the reader. I didn't have the sparkplug hooked up but I figured that wouldn't matter beings the current comes from the alternator before it gets to the spark plug. So does that mean I need another stator?? And the little box to the right that ur talking about, is that to the right of the stator? or the right of the bike?, have any pictures?
 
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#7
jabroni1m.

You must check the leads with an ohm meter for their resistance value. Trying to get a voltage reading from them won't tell you much.

I would suggest getting a service manual. That will tell you what to check and also give the proper values.
 
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#8
My little volt meter thingy has a ohm meter reader so I'll go check that now. See what I get when I kick her over. Thanks.
 
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#9
Originally posted by Ol'89r
jabroni1m.

I would suggest getting a service manual. That will tell you what to check and also give the proper values.
Well, that's the first time I ever quoted myself. :confused:

jabroni1m.

I WOULD NOT suggest checking your leads with you ohm meter while kicking the engine over. If you do that, you will most likely nuke your ohm meter.

What you are checking for is resistance not output. Your voltmeter checks for voltage output. Your ohm meter checks for resistance in the system. Too much resistance or not enough resistence shows you if the part is good or bad. Each electrical part in your system will have a certain resistance value. You have to look in the service manual inorder to get the correct resistance value.

DON'T turn the engine over while checking with the ohm meter or you can damage the ohm meter.

There again, do yourself a favor and get a service manual. :thumb:
 
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#10
Don't worry, I got the service manual finally. It was over at my parents house. I am reading all electrical and troubleshooting information tomorrow. We'll see how it goes. Have 2 ohm meters now so if I fry one, still have one. JOKE. Will see what happens. Worse comes to worse, i'll have to take it to honda and be charged 50 an hour to get it fixed, shouldn't take them more than 2 hours plus parts at most. I called them and they said they would be able to do it quick but their backed up until new years.
 
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#11
Ok first it said check the CDI unit.
1. Ignition coild primary coil, should be .1-.3 ohm's, it was .6
2. Alternator exciter coil, should be 230-320 ohm's, it was 0
3. Pulse generator, should be 360-440 ohm's, it was 409
4. Engine stop switch, should be no continuity, it was 0

So any ideas?? and trying to read the ohm's out of the wires that come out of the stator, there are 3 wires and with any combination it gives me 0 ohm's

Any ideas??
 
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#12
Originally posted by jabroni1m
2. Alternator exciter coil, should be 230-320 ohm's, it was 0

Any ideas?? [/B]


Looks like that could be your problem. You may want to have your local shop check it before replacing it. Most shops won't let you return electrical items.

Also, sometimes electrical parts can check a little out of the required parameters and still be good. Have also seen them check within these parameters and turn out to be bad. To be sure, have your shop do the final check.

Just my $ .02
 
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#13
Whats the average a honda shop will charge per hour? about $50? Its not that i'm a cheap ace its just my honda shop is about 20 days backed up. Thats the only reason i've been trying to do it myself.
 
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#14
Originally posted by jabroni1m
Whats the average a honda shop will charge per hour? about $50? Its not that i'm a cheap ace its just my honda shop is about 20 days backed up. Thats the only reason i've been trying to do it myself.
Not sure where you are located but, around here they charge about $ 60. - $65 per hour.

If you remove the parts to be tested and hand carry them into your shop, they should be able to test them without making you wait behind their regular service and rebuild jobs. That is, if they are capable of testing them in the first place. Not all shops are. :ugg:

It doesn't take long to test a part but, most shops have a minimum charge for testing electrical parts. Like I said, once you buy an electrical part, most shops won't let you return it.

First, be sure to eliminate the obvious things. Like FOURTYPLUS suggested, check ALL of your electrical connections for corrosion. Check the plug cap. Remove the plug cap and unscrew the boot from the coil wire. Cut about 3/8" from the end of the wire and screw the cap back on. The end of the wire can become corroded and lose contact with the cap. Also, check the cap itself. There is a little resistor and a spring in there. Make sure you have contact through the cap. On XR's, I usually remove the resister and replace it with a piece of copper rod.

Before you plug everything back in, go to your local auto parts store and get a tube of DIELECTRIC GREASE and use a little bit on each connection. This helps to waterproof the connections and also help prevent corrosion.

:thumb:
 
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#15
So did you get it going... I would do the same check all electrical connections and use the dielectric grease. I had an XL600 and the electrical connections started going bad one after the other... The groundwire on the coil went bad and it would disconnect at high RPM's throwing big arcs right under the metal tank and cutting out at speed... That was scary when I first noticed it one nite.. Especially since I just fixed a gas tank leak!! :ohmy: I was so sure it was the carb and I was toying around with that.