03 gas gas ec250 air boot problem

[MLEACH]

I noticed today, when I went to take the carb off to rejet, that the rubber intake manifold was not fitting correctly on the reed cage.When I tried to line it up , the carb would not seal on the air boot. Has anybody had or seen this problem?

 

[the Eel]

I think I've seen that on an XC 250. Try tightening the reed cage side clamps first ... then seal the one to the airbox afterwards. If you've already done it in that order and it didn't work ... then try doing the airbox first and then the reed cage side. I remember one of those orders did the trick ... just can't remember which order it was. I figure if you try both, you'll get it.

 

[MLEACH]

the Eel. Thanks for the advice. I did try it both ways and it did not make any difference. The rubber piece seems about 1/4 too short and the air boot is a lot stiffer than my KDX. There is a groove in the reed cage that the manifold is supposed to fit in to.I can get it sealed, but I wonder if it is really sealed well. I also had to pull the seat, shrouds, and tank to get the carb off.

 

[Mully]

Guys,

It is always a good idea to put the carb on the airboot side first. The rubber boot and carb together are much easier to move toward the reed block rather then doing it the other way around. Now, on every bike I have owned I did it this way. With my 01 XC300 I still do and I have noticed the same issue. Now it has become a two person job to do it correctly. My son holds the carb in place while I tighten the clamp. I hope Gas Gas corrects this problem with the newer bikes.

Mully

 

[MLEACH]

Thanks Mully.I thought I was just being a wimp.I have E-Mailed my dealer and I will post what I find out.

 

[kdxjr]

MLEACH, someone pointed this out to me take a heat gun and reshape the back portion of the boot. Mount the boot to the reed cage first on my XC125 it was the back part of the boot that was funktified.

 

[MLEACH]

KDXJR-----THANKS, NEVER THOUGHT OF THAT

 

[headbanger]

You do not need to pull the carb when rejetting.
1. Take the cap off the top of the carb and pull the slide out
2. take gas line off carb.
3. take countersprocket guard off
4. loosen both clamps on the carb
5. you can now spin the carb over to rejet thru the bottom 17mm cap or take the float bowl off.
Once you do it a few times it's very quick!
Good Luck!

 

[fatty_k]

Was your bike supposed to have a reed block spacer? My 300 has a spacer and if that is removed, I can see how that can make the air boot seem 1/4" too short.

 

[WoodsRider]

Never had a problem and I've take mine on and off several times. I usually rejet mine by on the bike, using the process detailed above. Once a season I take it off, thoroughly clean the passages and set float height.

The reed block spacer is only on the 300s. I installed one, but it made removing the carb a PITA.

 

[sharp]

Make shure the rubber boot on the reed cage is fitted in the proper direction. When I would take my carb off I would remove the bottom subframe bolts only and loosen the top ones. Then I would tilt the sub frame up out of the way and tighten the top bolts. When re-installing - install boot on reed cage, then carb, then swing sub-frame down and COAX the airboot onto the back of the carb with a little wiggle here and there.

Shawn
'01 XC 250

 

[MLEACH]

Thanks everyone! Headbanger, do you have a 250 or300? Sharp your idea sounds good too. I never had this problem on my KDX. Pulling the carb was easy. What do ya'll use to clean the mud and dirt off in the field?

 

[headbanger]

I have a 02 XC250 (no reed spacer)