KTMBell

Member
May 14, 2001
49
0
I have an 01 KTM 200 MXC that seems to be running very sluggish lately. I know the change in temperature (very hot summer) and proper jetting is important...but I worry a few changes I've made lately may have affected its perfromance. I recently put on a V-force reed system, combined with an FMF Gnarly pipe and power Core II silencer. According to all the Buzzzzz...this should have unleashed the monster inside...but she doesn't seem to run as well as stock pipe (w/ power core) and stock reeds???
This is my third year on her...put in rings last year but have not done a top end since I bought it new. Live in Northwest Ohio and run Aimsoil Racing 50;1. I here everyone talking about Sudko DDK needles, etc. but not sure how taper of neddle works/affect performance. FMF suggested I jet up and not as lean as stock setting. Doesn't seem to be too much spooge out of pipe. Plug may be a little rich (so hard to judge by simply looking at ceramic). Clip is all the way up...air screw about three turns out.
Knew something was wrong, but didn't realize how bad until I rode my buddies new 200 EXC. Much more power from throttle all the way through power band.

Anyone advice! (other than buying a new bike)

Thanks,

KTMBell
 

TexKDX

~SPONSOR~
Aug 8, 1999
747
0
Put a piston and rings in it, decarb it, make sure the power valve is working and adjusted correctly. Also decarb the pipe and repack the silencer.

Air screw 3 turns out indicates too rich a pilot BTW, if in fact it needs to be out that far.

The FMF pipe is a BAD idea on the 200s one of my tuners tells me - he says run the stocker or a Doma (Jeff Slavens comments on the 200).

I'd freshen/clean it up and go back to the stock pipe as a baseline. Same with the jetting - second from the top on the stock needle, 180 main, stock pilot, 1 3/4 out on the air screw, clean air filter.

I was riding a stock, fairly fresh '02 with proper jetting for 10k feet over the weekend. Very sweet running bike, pulls right off the bottom, very linear, pulls well on top. Good luck getting it squared away!
 
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GREENBUNCH

Member
Nov 13, 2001
33
0
I second the stock pipe recomendation. I had the FMF and it really made my 200mxc feel corked. I put the stocker back on and it screems.
 

KTMBell

Member
May 14, 2001
49
0
Thanks...was afraid to admit that the stock pipe ran better...especially after investing the $$$ in the FMF. I should still use the power core II...right?
I clean the air filter religiously. Using the "No Toil" brand oil, cleaner and grease. Love the stuff.
Someone told me that a stock pipe from a 250 MXC/EXC runs great on a 200...any info on that?
Should I go back to the stock reed gage or keep running the V-Force.
Any ideas on the DDK needle instead of the stock NOZG?

Thanka again,

KTMBell
 

TexKDX

~SPONSOR~
Aug 8, 1999
747
0
Can't imagine the 250 pipe will fit... stinger diameter is definately different.

Thumbs up on the No Toil too.
 

KTMBell

Member
May 14, 2001
49
0
One more question TexKDX...you said, "Put a piston and rings in it, decarb it, make sure the power valve is working and adjusted correctly. Also decarb the pipe and repack the silencer."
Am I using a carb cleaner on cylinder, power valves and pipe? How do you blow out the pipe.
I use to own a KDX 200 and put rings and piston in it. Never worked on a KTooMer before.
Problem is I do not have any top end experience, neither do I have the $$$ to have it done. Not sure I know of anyone local with KTM knowledge I could trust to tune. Local shop will rack me big bucks, and haven't heard any good feedback on their shop work.

thanks again,

KTMBell
 

TexKDX

~SPONSOR~
Aug 8, 1999
747
0
Best method of decarb is a glass beader. Take the jug, piston, and head to a local dirt bike tuner. Let him measure the bore and piston and decarb/reassemble the power valve and clean out the ports and head. Most likely you'll be putting a piston in it anyway, but these guys like to see what came out of the motor. A local dealer MAY have the expertise - it is up to you to inventory what kind of skills they have there.

I did the head, piston crown, and ports on my '74 TY250 last week with brake cleaner and a small rounded edge screwdriver.

The pipe? Lots of methods for this. The "best" is soak it with diesel oil and set it on fire, but that is tough on the plated pipes. There is the inner cable on a drill method too. And the soak it in WD-40 and bang on the outside, followed up with Simple Green and alot of water. You might be able to get a pressure washer nozzle in there to blast some of it away.

If money is an issue, then do your best to find a local rider that knows his way around these KTM top ends. Pretty simple really, but easly to screw up if you don't have well developed mechanical skills. If you lived by me I'd say bring it over and we'd rip into it, but you are about 1200 miles away.

Leo.
 
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wyatt

Member
Apr 3, 2002
201
0
If this problem surfaced right after top end instalation it could be the power valve actuator is miss-aligned. there is a little plate with 2 bolts on right side of cylinder next to exhaust port. Look and see if the mechanisim is aligned properly. If the powervalve is misaligned or misstimed it will be a real dog on top.
 

PAMXC200

Member
Feb 16, 2001
14
0
First, I know from first hand experience that what was said about the powervalve mechanism being aligned properly. The bike will not rev out at ALL if this is screwed up and the powervalve is not opening.

Also, I once put an FMF gnarly pipe on a '97 KTM 250 that I had. The little extra low end that the pipe provided was not worth the tradeoff in top end power. IMO the stock pipe provided a broader spread of power, dents and all.
 
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