before the first ride? xc250

clw

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#1
Besides the obvious (filter oiled, tire pressure, tranny oil & gas) are there any peculiarities that need to be done to this bike before riding the first time?

Do the Spainiards know how to grease bearings unlike the Japanese? Or is a full tear down and greasing in order?

Thanks
 
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#2
The bikes are actually greased very well, and the seals on the linkage seem better than on the Jap bikes. One very important thing: Check your rear pipe mount/bolt for contact with the tank. Make a plastic shim to fit between the pipe bracket and tank, or carefully bend the bracket slightly. Break it in stock (rich) then rejet 175-178 main, 35P (sea level) and it will rip. The bikes are tight when new so be careful and warm it up slow. Good luck and enjoy your new ride.
 

clw

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#3
Nothing like a hole in the gas tank to dim the shine of a new bike! I guess you are fabricating and attaching this shim to the tank mount bolt?

One quick, off the cuff, observation on the jetting; a 35 pilot? On a Keihin carb that is a very lean pilot. Is this lean a pilot compensating for a too rich slide or too small needle diameter? Or does the Gas Gas XC250 just have a high vacuum at low speeds? Off the top of your head, do you know what comes from GGNA?

Ho hum, another week to wait.
 
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#4
clw,

Stock is a 38P, 182M, N1EC#3. The bikes have a RAD valve, and I'm told, a high intake velocity. Maybe thats why they like a lean number pilot. Leave it alone for break in. Check the float height before rejetting. Change the main to a 178, 182 is ridiculous. The needle is good, but an N1ED #3 in my bike is perfect. Some guys drop the N1EC to #2, but my bike did not like this. Break the bike in, change the main. If you can't get a decent idle and load up a lot, go to the 35P. Fine tune the top with a 175 if its warm out. If it now runs good, but loads up slightly after a tight slow section, try the N1ED #3. Just do one at a time. I still have a dark plug with great power and no ping, so its safe. I run a 50/50 mix of VP Red and Mobil 93 with Amsoil Series 2000 @ 40:1.

Yes, I made a plastic "wrap around" shim that mounts to the pipe bracket.
 

clw

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#5
Thanx again!

Can you tell I'm still KTM weird when it comes to jetting (the 300Exc pain lingers). Never could figure out why the Euro's can't get jetting close. I'm with you though, I'd rather increase the diameter (I'm assuming a D needle is one step larger in diameter than the C) to prevent the mid-top loss than usually occurs when you have to drop a needle to compensate for an overly rich off idle condition.

Didn't I read before that you have the 12:1 EC top end? Do you have to run 50/50 race gas? If it (the EC motor) needs 50/50 , then what will my true XC (14:1) need! I normally use straight Mobil 93.
 
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#6
clw,

I'm also an ex KTM rider (and jetter). The GG is a snap to jet, no weird requirements. The Euros jet the bikes rich deliberately (for break in).

Yes, the "D" needle is a step larger straight diameter, but the section is short, so it has very little effect over 1/8 throttle. The N1EC #2 made my bike too lean in the midrange. The N1EC is not bad, but the N1ED is just better in the tight woods. Get a few cycles on the bike and change the main to a 178, and take it from there.

Yes, I have an EC head. There is so much crap in the pump gas here in NJ (that varies season to season), I run a mix for more consistancy. Mine would be fine with straight 93, but I just don't know about the motor with the XC spec head. Ask GGNA or Jim at SMS. I'll ask my local dealer who races an XC250 when I go there later this week. Perhaps your jetting will end up a bit richer than mine.

You will be amazed at the power and durability of the motor. I had my top end apart at about 1000 miles, and the piston and rings were like new. I replaced rings because I had them, but didn't really have to. I know another local rider who has a '99 EC300 with close to 2000 miles on the original top end.
 

KiwiBird

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#7
Check your spokes, several guys have lost them after the first ride, particularly the rear.
 

Offroadr

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#8
Correct Kiwi, they come very loose from the factory (at least both of my bikes did) Also the rubber grommets on the radiators tend to fall out or pull from the holes. Superglue will fix that problem.

Not a whole lot to do! Just Ride!
 

clw

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#9
Most anything short of splitting the cases is OK by me. I've had such bad luck with bottom ends lately that a loose spoke or two sounds great.

Thanks for the advice.
 

clw

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#10
Spokes!

Is there a problem with GG spokes taking a set and seizing the nipple and the spoke? I've heard it is advisable to undo ever nipple and apply anti-seize when I replace my tires for the first time. Fact or fiction?
 
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#11
I don't think the spokes/nipples are any different than on any other bike. They can all seize eventually. Every time I change a tire, I clean the inside of the rim and apply some penetrating oil to the inside of each spoke nipple, which seems to keep things relatively corrosion free.
 

clw

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#12
Watch that pipe!

FYI!
Any owner of a new GG should really pay attention to the pipe bracket near the kickstarter as advised earlier in this thread. I saw a little rub action going on with the front of the bracket and the edge of the recess in the tank so after I pulled off the pipe to do a little grinding on the bracket I could then see that the bolt was also boring into the tank on the back side of the bracket. Even w/o the bolt the pipe bracket alone made contact with the tank on the front edge and at the back of the bracket. Looks like FMF has the bracket 1/2" too far forward!
 
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#13
Yeah, FMF did screw this up, and also the silencer mount offset. The original Messico pipes and silencers fit much better.
 
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#14
Spokes! Mine loosened up substantially after the first ride. Also check the wheel lock (or whatever that bolt is called that keeps the tire from slipping), mine was loose.

Chafe tape on the frame rails as the nickel plating can wear off fast. I also heard to use it on the subframe where the seat contacts it. After your first ride, it should be obvious when you remove the seat.

If you got your bike in a crate, go a head and change your oil just to make sure. The manual points to the wrong drain plug. It's the one farthest to the back.

Order a new idle adjustment screw from Carb Parts Warehouse. The stock plastic one is prone to breakage and CPW sells a metal replacement.

The stock headlight has two bulbs in it. One is not hooked up and can fall out (mine did).

I have an XC200 and it runs great on premium pump gas but I am still running pretty rich with a 180 main.

As for the tank, there is some wiring that is squeezed between the frame rail and the tank that makes removing the tank kind of a pain. Rerouting the cables under the frame rail with some zip ties fixed the problem and might help with the pipe bracket problem.
 

clw

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#15
Good News!

Getting a new pipe from GG. Maybe it'll work better. Have to wait and see.