last time i went to the local shop to buy my pre mix oil i decided to try some chain wax instead of regular chain lube since it got all over everything. I soaked my chain in gas and cleaned it to get the chain lube off. The problem is that the cahin way slings almost as bad as the lube did and it gets all over my cylinder and radiator and back fender, im not putting any excess on? someone help me its driving me crazy
flinging chain lube
- Thread starter derekk87
- Start date
B
biglou
I've used the PJ1 Blue lable for almost two years now and it does not fling off one bit on my bikes.
- Jul 31, 2000
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I like the blue label PJ-1 also, but there's some maxima synthetic stuff that my buddy has and I used, it works nicely too, I have noticed no slinging from either product. Are you lubing a regular chain or an O-ring chain?
From my experience:
PJ-1(regular wet lube)= big mess ,lubricates very well, but attracts dirt
Bel Ray Super Clean= doesn't seem to penetrate that well , but doesn't fling off whatsoever, so I use it for the Dual sport DRZ
Rock Oil Professional chain lube= Perfect, although it can can be hard to find
PJ-1(regular wet lube)= big mess ,lubricates very well, but attracts dirt
Bel Ray Super Clean= doesn't seem to penetrate that well , but doesn't fling off whatsoever, so I use it for the Dual sport DRZ
Rock Oil Professional chain lube= Perfect, although it can can be hard to find
I use the Maxima Chain Wax, I have heard that it is good stuff but I wonder if it lubricates as well as other brands. It never slings or attracts dirt if you let it set for about 20 min. or so, but I almost feel that it is too clean to be working properly. However its quite difficult to get off.
NO HAND
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- Jun 21, 2000
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If that Maxima chain wax flings off while you ride it is because you did not let it dry long enough. It needs to be applied right after the ride, so the chain is warm for the application and so the solvent dries before next ride. If you forgot, it's too late because applying the wax just before the ride is a waste of a chain and wax. I would guess it takes at least 3 hours before all the solvent escapes from the wax.
Well, the Maxima never slings on me but this is how I do it. Wash the bike Friday night let dry, use WD40 on chain, linkage, and front sproket. It then sits till Sunday, before I load it up in the am, apply wax before I take it off the stand. It sets (dries) on the way. Apply again once later mid-ride fill up and let it sit for 20-30 min. No Sling Ever.
- Nov 7, 2001
- 1,234
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Did you make sure the gas dried from the chain completely before lubing it. I would think that if there was still gas in the rollers it would either stop the chain was from adering properly or work its way out when you are moving causing it to fling off.
I use Maxima Chain Wax and haven't any problems with it flinging off.
I use Maxima Chain Wax and haven't any problems with it flinging off.
kciH
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- Jan 28, 2002
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I've been using the Chain wax since I put a new X-ring on my 426. If you follow the directions it will give you very minimal slingage. I don't have the can in front of me, but it is supposed to be applied to a warm chain and it is supposed to not be ridden for about 1/2 hour or so after being applied. The best part about this stuff is that you DON'T have to clean all of it off the chain in order for it to work properly. The dirt and gunk sticks to the outer side of the chain wax and you just wipe it off after riding (or riding around your neighborhood to warm the chain, not advised in residential areas) and reapply a light coat to the warm chain. Let it sit for 1/2 hour and you're ready to go. I have NEVER seen any chain lube (except no chain lube at all) that does not sling at least a little...and the side covers on my bike are white so it's easy to see. I have had good luck with it, some say it sucks, but I KNOW it works from actually using it.
Happy Roosting :)
Happy Roosting :)
Dry-film solids lubricants are the best lubes for roller chains. They penetrate, offer superior friction protection and load carrying abilities, and do not attract dirt. Nothing is as clean and effective.
(not to mention that lubricating solids last far longer than petroleum films)
(not to mention that lubricating solids last far longer than petroleum films)
NO HAND
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- Jun 21, 2000
- 1,198
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I have been comparing recently two different products after reading about dry lubricants being better. I have used only ZEP45 (Like WD40 but with Teflon and Vidax) for the life of a RK MXZ520. I can say it wore twice as fast as usual than with the Maxima chain wax. I have to admit I wish the Zep45 worked because it is much cleaner to deal with but... I went back to the wax but I'm wondering if there is a better product containing better dry lubricants out there. How come it didn't work?
kciH
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Jan 28, 2002
- 225
- 0
If the part that is actually doing the lubrication was a dry solid, would this destroy the o or x rings as they are only rubber? I'm not sure if I understand you correctly when you are saying "dry solids". I use mica to lubricate some things unrelated to dirt bikes and that is an actual dry solid. Please shed some light if you can, as I'm a bit confused.
On metal surfaces, there are microscopic hills and valleys. These irregularities, when unprotected, will shear and tear each other off as they rub together. Without any lubrication these asperities in the metal surfaces will continue to tear at each other creating heat and even more wear. The wear will also leave particles from the tearing and they will also serve as an abrasive. As most of you know, non-lubricated metal parts wear very fast.
Petroleum film type lubes protect metel surfaces from friction by forming a thin film between two metal surfaces. This film will protect the surfaces from breaking and tearing at one another. In a perfect world, petroleum film will be approx. .002" thick on each surface. This layer of protection works well IF it can maintain the .002" thickness throughout the wear process. Problem with petroleum films is that it is very hard to keep that film in place. Petroleum films have a need to be replaced often to be effective. Heat, excessive friction, contamination, and wash-out make it necessary to keep replentishing the film. A motors crank lives well with petroleum film type protection since it has a bath of the fluid that is readily available (oil pan). Also, a ring chain has a supply of lubricant that is sealed within the bushing to help replentish the petroleum film.
Dry-film lubricants work in a slightly diferent manner than petroleum. This type of fluid will consist of a wet carrier (usually a petroleum product) that has a lubricating solid mixed in. Common lubricating solids can be graphite or molybdenum(moly) disalfate (Imagine a microscopic mineral powder). These lubricating solids are carried to the friction surface by these thin-bodied petroleum carriers. Since a dry film fluid tends to be very thin(like water), it is a great penetrator, carrying the solids to any area they can reach. The solids will then be distributed on the metal. Solids such as moly are polar and have a natural affinity for the little craters in the metals surface, meaning they want to stick there like a magnet. Once in place, the petroleum carrier will evaporate to a near dry state leaving only the solids and polymers. These solids work very well to keep the metals from wearing at one another. They also tend to carry a greater shock load than petroleum oil films. Solids such as these will also resist wash-out from water and will protect for a longer period of time than the oil film since they don't require replentishing as often. Moly molecules also repel one another adding to the friction/load protection.
One big difference in the characteristics of the two types of lubes is that petroleum film lubes tend to attract dirt and grit like flypaper. Once dirt has gotten on the film, it will tend to mix and create a grinding paste. Dry-films, on the other hand, will not attract dirt or grit once the carrier has disipated.
The solids will not harm o-rings of any type. It is the carrier that can trash a ring. Some dry-film type lubes use a carrier that is not friendly to rings and can either cause them to swell, or to dry out...neither of which is a good thing. Some regular petroleum film lubes will attack rings. Most will not.
Motorcycle chain specific dry-films will use a carrier than does not attack rings.
WD-40 is NOT a dry-film lubricant as I described above. It has no lubricating solids. It also has a carrier that has been shown to be unfriendly to rings. Other products that are similar to WD-40 are just as useless. The films that they create are far from good load carriers, unless you are lubricating a door hinge or other low movement item.
There are many many many petroleum film products on the market. The use a mulitude of differnt thickness' and carriers each with their own bad points.
There are very few dry-film solid type lubricants on the market that are sufficient for our sport.
Petroleum film type lubes protect metel surfaces from friction by forming a thin film between two metal surfaces. This film will protect the surfaces from breaking and tearing at one another. In a perfect world, petroleum film will be approx. .002" thick on each surface. This layer of protection works well IF it can maintain the .002" thickness throughout the wear process. Problem with petroleum films is that it is very hard to keep that film in place. Petroleum films have a need to be replaced often to be effective. Heat, excessive friction, contamination, and wash-out make it necessary to keep replentishing the film. A motors crank lives well with petroleum film type protection since it has a bath of the fluid that is readily available (oil pan). Also, a ring chain has a supply of lubricant that is sealed within the bushing to help replentish the petroleum film.
Dry-film lubricants work in a slightly diferent manner than petroleum. This type of fluid will consist of a wet carrier (usually a petroleum product) that has a lubricating solid mixed in. Common lubricating solids can be graphite or molybdenum(moly) disalfate (Imagine a microscopic mineral powder). These lubricating solids are carried to the friction surface by these thin-bodied petroleum carriers. Since a dry film fluid tends to be very thin(like water), it is a great penetrator, carrying the solids to any area they can reach. The solids will then be distributed on the metal. Solids such as moly are polar and have a natural affinity for the little craters in the metals surface, meaning they want to stick there like a magnet. Once in place, the petroleum carrier will evaporate to a near dry state leaving only the solids and polymers. These solids work very well to keep the metals from wearing at one another. They also tend to carry a greater shock load than petroleum oil films. Solids such as these will also resist wash-out from water and will protect for a longer period of time than the oil film since they don't require replentishing as often. Moly molecules also repel one another adding to the friction/load protection.
One big difference in the characteristics of the two types of lubes is that petroleum film lubes tend to attract dirt and grit like flypaper. Once dirt has gotten on the film, it will tend to mix and create a grinding paste. Dry-films, on the other hand, will not attract dirt or grit once the carrier has disipated.
The solids will not harm o-rings of any type. It is the carrier that can trash a ring. Some dry-film type lubes use a carrier that is not friendly to rings and can either cause them to swell, or to dry out...neither of which is a good thing. Some regular petroleum film lubes will attack rings. Most will not.
Motorcycle chain specific dry-films will use a carrier than does not attack rings.
WD-40 is NOT a dry-film lubricant as I described above. It has no lubricating solids. It also has a carrier that has been shown to be unfriendly to rings. Other products that are similar to WD-40 are just as useless. The films that they create are far from good load carriers, unless you are lubricating a door hinge or other low movement item.
There are many many many petroleum film products on the market. The use a mulitude of differnt thickness' and carriers each with their own bad points.
There are very few dry-film solid type lubricants on the market that are sufficient for our sport.
nos, I'm biased as I am in the process of marketing a product such as I've described. I don't have it completely ready for market yet, so I wold suggest using what MikeT recommends. It is the closest thing that I know of that is suitable. To be honest, I'm not sure about all the components of Honda dry-film, but I think they claim it is fine for rings.
I recommend the same lube for all chains. Even though a ring chain has protection between the pin and bushing, there is no protection provided between the bushing and roller, or the roller and sprocket teeth.
The fact that a ring chain has a sealed lubricant tends to make them appear to be maintenance free, but they are not. The sufaces I mentioned need lube. Also, a rind chain WILL use up the provided lubricant eventually even if you are lubing it often. The lube you place on a ring chain has no way of getting to the area between the bushing and the pin, therefore...once the grease or oil in between the rings has disipated, it's all downhill from there.
If you run in the slop, use a ring chain. If you MX on a groomed track, use a non-ring chain and lubricate with a quality dry-film and it is very possible that the non-ring chain will outlast any ring chain.
There are many factors that can effect this result either way, and it is widely discussed. Bottom line is, use a quality lube, clean your chain whenever possible, and adjust correctly and you will have happy chains.
(I keep a non-ring chain on my bike, but I have a ring set-up for sloppy times)
BTW....Never let your chain dry after cleaning with water without lubing immediately. A thin bodied dry-film will disperse the water, but if you don't use this type of fluid be sure and spray the chain with WD-40 or similar product before you lube it to get the water out. Thick parafin waxes can trap water inside and oxidation will occur almost immediately. Oxides are wonderful abrasives, and the thick gunk will help to keep the abrasives in place so they can do their damage.
I recommend the same lube for all chains. Even though a ring chain has protection between the pin and bushing, there is no protection provided between the bushing and roller, or the roller and sprocket teeth.
The fact that a ring chain has a sealed lubricant tends to make them appear to be maintenance free, but they are not. The sufaces I mentioned need lube. Also, a rind chain WILL use up the provided lubricant eventually even if you are lubing it often. The lube you place on a ring chain has no way of getting to the area between the bushing and the pin, therefore...once the grease or oil in between the rings has disipated, it's all downhill from there.
If you run in the slop, use a ring chain. If you MX on a groomed track, use a non-ring chain and lubricate with a quality dry-film and it is very possible that the non-ring chain will outlast any ring chain.
There are many factors that can effect this result either way, and it is widely discussed. Bottom line is, use a quality lube, clean your chain whenever possible, and adjust correctly and you will have happy chains.
(I keep a non-ring chain on my bike, but I have a ring set-up for sloppy times)
BTW....Never let your chain dry after cleaning with water without lubing immediately. A thin bodied dry-film will disperse the water, but if you don't use this type of fluid be sure and spray the chain with WD-40 or similar product before you lube it to get the water out. Thick parafin waxes can trap water inside and oxidation will occur almost immediately. Oxides are wonderful abrasives, and the thick gunk will help to keep the abrasives in place so they can do their damage.
