Help w/X/O-ring chains


Mi. Trail Riders
I just put a new X-Ring(RK) on this last weekend and had a hell of a time w/it. My buddy, who's used O-Rings for the last couple of years, couldn't even get it on w/out snapping the clip. Is this normal? According to the package, you're supposed to use a chain press tool. Is this really necessary, or is there another way around this. I got it to work by going to the shop and finding a that would work. It's not the right one, but it fits. And yes, it's a very tight fit, but not as tight as the original one(tight to the point where I didn't think that it'd go on). What's a fella ta do?

Vos Schola

chain press tool

Buy the tool, it'll make your life alot easier. Yes, there are other ways around it but I haven't found one that is as easy or as fast as using the chain press.
Just a note: I have yet to figure out an easy way to get the sideplate off after i've pressed it on with the chain press (I broke a couple of screwdrivers trying).


Mi. Trail Riders
OH JOY!:( It just keeps getting better. Now, in addition to being a pain to get on, they're a pain to get off as well. Oh well, I guess there's a price for having a chain that'll last for a year +(w/proper maint.). I'd appreciate it if someone'd comment on Vos' note about getting them off.

dirt bike dave

Sponsoring Member
Just use another brand of master link that doesn't have the press fit side plate. Much less hassle. There is no need to have the press fit plate, IMO.

RK master links also seem to have short pins so you really have to compress the o-rings to get the plate on - what a PITA. Try a Regina master link. Goes on and off with a pair of pliers and about 2 seconds of your time.


D.I.D XW Ring chain

I purchased an XW ring chain...

I found the best way to go about it is to take a small socket big enough to put over the pin, and a C-Clamp big enough to fit over the socket and chain.

Press the plate on with the clamp, alternating pins every so often, until it is seated well enough to get the clip on. Make sure the closed end is facing the front of the bike.

I had to remove the plate once... I was forced to use a chain breaker. Screw drivers just dont work well enough.


Apprentice Goon
My therapist says I should maybe start using o-ring chains all the time so I won't have this complex to always comment on them. :)

Oh well, I guess there's a price for having a chain that'll last for a year +(w/proper maint.).

Aaaa.....if an o-ring chain will last a year, there is no reason, other than improper maint. that a regular chain won't last as long....and considering the things that can happen to the ring chain that are out of our control, a regular chain CAN last longer! Just my .02 pfennigs


Mi. Trail Riders
Jay, let me get this straight. If I read your post correctly, you're implying that a reg. chain and an o-ring chain will last approximately the same amount of time, if both are give the proper maintenance, correct? From what I've read here, with what I've been able to figure out, that's not it. I may be wrong, and if I am, someone please correct me(in gentle terms, pls., I'm fragile;) ), but the main reason for the rings is to keep out the harmful elements(i.e. sand, water, little Johnny's Kool-Aid......) from the interior of the roller bushings, thereby keeping the contaminents on the exterior only, thus making it easier to get them(read:clean them) off of the chain and lengthening the life of the chain. With a reg. chain, you will almost never get every thing out of the inner roller/bushings b/c it's just too small of an area get at. With an o-ring, the ring keeps the lube that the company puts inside the bushings(if they indeed DO put lube in there) and it's only the exterior of the chain that gets cleaned, where as you end up cleaning a reg. chain inside and out. I don't know a whole about this biking thing as I've just been involved w/it for just over a year, but I do know that one of the biggest things that wears a chain is grime(spec. dirt and moisture).
Once again, if I'm off, someone please correct me.


Apprentice Goon
The reason for the rings is more to keep the lubricant in rather than grit out.
The rub begins when one of these trusty little rings is violated. And you have no idea when, where, or exactly what link(s) that may be. Once grit and or water enter a damaged ring, the trouble begins. The grit will stay in there and eat away. The water can eventually cause oxidation with nowhere for the oxides to go. Oxide is one great abrasive.

Lets think about it...if you buy a ring chain and a non of the same brand, there is reason to believe that the metal and machining of each chain will be very similar. That being said, with the ring chain you must TRUST that they have indeed put sufficient lubricant inside. You also must TRUST that no rings have been damaged or violated. With a non-ring chain YOU are responsible for it's longevity.
Don't get me wrong, I happen to think that ring chains are a very good thing to use, in the proper conditions. I just happen to preffer my maintenance technique over the trusting of an o-ring chain for normal riding. Another issue is lubricant consumsion. If you place grease in a bearing housing, it will not last forever....the bearing will eventually consume the grease provided and will require more grease for optimum perfomance. Same with chain links. The grease that was placed by the factory WILL eventually break down.

BTW, a pressure wash WILL get out the dirt from the rollers.


Mi. Trail Riders
OK, I concede to your points, but you're never going to get 100% of the dirt and/or moisture out from the rollers. But then again, there aren't going to be 100% guarantees on any of the stuff that we do. I'll still stick to the rings and just deal w/the fact that you're loco(j/k ;) ). Besides, either chain, taken care of properly, would probably last longer than most peoples'(meaning your average rider that'll ride it hard and put it away wet(figureatively speaking)).