Mobile 1 5w-50 Did I make a mistake?

Max Factor

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#1
I think I stuffed up buying some Mobile 1 last night for my KTM 520. I went to buy Mobile 1 fot the first time and got a little confused between the 15w-50 and 5w-50. I was going for the 15w-50, red cap when I read the back and it described it as a synthetic blend. So doubting my recollection on the description, I bought the gold cap 5w-50 which was described on the lable as full synthetic.
Is this gold capped Mobile 1 the type with friction modifiers that could make my clutch slip? Should I drain it and toss it to go buy the red cap 15w-50? I'm a little confused as I thought the 15w-50 was supposed to be full synthetic??
 
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#2
See if it has anything about "energy conserving"(usually in a stamp-like thingy). That would mean it has the bad stuff in it.
 
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#3
Originally posted by Max Factor

Is this gold capped Mobile 1 the type with friction modifiers that could make my clutch slip? Should I drain it and toss it to go buy the red cap 15w-50? I'm a little confused as I thought the 15w-50 was supposed to be full synthetic??
15w-50 and the 5w-50, if they are fully synthetic you will have no problems. - I take it's Mobil 4T racing oil? So long as they aren't semi-synthetic or mineral oils.

The 15W-50 and the 5W-50 is not the weight of the oil but the viscosity of the oil - the higher the number's the less viscosity. Also the W stands for winter grade and the 50 is the summer grade - the lower the W grade, the more fluid(viscous) the oil is at lower temperature (easier to start) and the higher the summer grade, the more the oil remains viscous @ higher temp. (100C).

I'd say you don't have a problem but l would use the 15W-50 as Geelong doesn't get that cold that it warrants a 5w-50 plus if your riding Anglesea a fair bit, checking the pad/disc wear after every ride is a priority. A KTM520, you shouldn't need to change the oil for at least 250-500kms depending on how often and how hard you ride the thing BUT use fully synthetic.
l use Motul 800 Comp 4T 15W-40 and also Motul 300V Sport 4T (better for camshaft tensioner engines) - difference, none really, just price . The 5100 range is a slight mineral oil processed with Ester additives included - better for transmission/gear's - quite safe.

Hope it helps.

J:confused:
01'TE400, 00'WR360, 92'KDX250
 

biglou

#4
OZ-I think you've got your winter viscosity definition backwards. The lower the number, the less resistant to flow (less viscous/thinner) the oil is. The higher the number, the more resisitant to flow (more viscous/thicker) the oil is. This coefficiant is true for all liquids, ie, more fluid=less viscous, less fluid=more viscous. The multi-weight oils have additive packages that allow them to be thinner in cold weather (less viscous, easier starting) and to resist thermal thinning at higher temps (they remain more viscous, less thermal breakdown, better parts protection).
 
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#5
Max,
I live very close to you and race all over the place. I've been running Mobil Extra 4T Semi-Synthetic 15W/50 in my 501 Husaberg since new. I have Mobil as a sponsor and they give me this to use because I change oil frequently and the mineral base is better for the gears. The fully synth oils last a bit longer but at the change intervals we use in bikes there's not a great deal in it. I had the motor apart at the end of last season and zero wear on bore, piston, cams etc. In fact I left the cam rocker rollers a little long before replacing (they're a 50 hr item in bergs) and one seized near the start of a 3hr Pony Express. Apart from tappet noise there was no indication and when I pulled her down there was no appreciable damage to the cam lobes. The cams in bergs are a very hard profile that keeps the valve closed for a bit then slams it open and closed so for there to be no damage is a testament to the film strength of the oil. In short, changing the oil frequently is better than expensive oil.
 

Strick

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#6
I Love this topic:p

I use Mobil 1 15W-50 (red cap - synthetic)

Here's a quick story. I have owned an '02 KTM 400SX for about 1 1/2 weeks now. The oil that came in the bike is Shell Advance (synthetic). I had a hard time finding neutral with the bike running, occassionally missed shifts, and could not start the bike in gear.

I told a buddy of mine, as soon as I put in Mobil 1 I will be able to start the bike in gear and find neutral with the bike running. Guess What?

I use it (and have used it) in all my bikes, 2-stroke and 4-stroke.
 

Max Factor

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#7
My thread isn't intended to start the whole Mobile 1 debate again.......far from it. I've read enough testimonial and technical data on this, and other sites from persons whose opinion I respect enough to choose Mobile 1 as the preffered oil.

As a first time purchaser of the product, I'm just trying to clarify the exact type, particularly if there's a difference between the U.S. packaged oil and what we have in Australia.

I bought Mobile 1 5w-50 (gold cap) because it was described on the rear label as "Fully synthetic race proven engine oil............." As opposed to the Mobile 1 15w-50 (red cap) that was on the shelf next to it and described along the lines of "Synthetic blend race proven......blah blah...."

The 5w-50 I currently have in my bike but not run with yet does not spedcifically mention "friction modifiers" . It states in the lower standards panel that it:

"Exceeds: American standard (AP) SJ / CF / EC European Standards (ACEA) A3-96/B3-96"

Should I take this stuff out of my bike and go with the 15w-50 red cap that's described as "Synthetic Blend"??? Do all your U.S. bottles say "Blend" or "Fully Synthetic"

Oz-Dirtbiker: I used to use the Motul 800 in my Husky 610. I might just keep using it yet :think
 
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#8
Originally posted by Max Factor
The 5w-50 I currently have in my bike but not run with yet does not spedcifically mention "friction modifiers" . It states in the lower standards panel that it:

"Exceeds: American standard (AP) SJ / CF / EC
The EC stands for Energy Conserving. Oils that meet the EC standard have been implicated in some wet clutch failures, so this version of Mobil 1 probably isn't the best choice for your bike.
 
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#10
Strick: My local dealer had worn me off using Shell Oils for that reason.

BigLou: Your right but unless l work with the SAE l'll probably get it backwards again.

Max Factor: I stick to one brand or two brands(Motul and Maxima) that l use constantly and if l'm in trouble out in the bush, Mobil would be the preferred - if it is good enough for my racebike (road), then it's good enough for the dirtbike.

J:D
 

Max Factor

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#11
Originally posted by Rich Rohrich


The EC stands for Energy Conserving. Oils that meet the EC standard have been implicated in some wet clutch failures, so this version of Mobil 1 probably isn't the best choice for your bike.
Thank You.
 
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#12
hate to pull this one out of the grave, but it wasn't finnished. We in Australia have different Mobil 1 oils (because we are behind).
The gold cap 5W-50 is a automotive specific oil that i use in my turbocharged datsun. It doesn't claim to be compatible with wet clutch systems so i wouldn't use it in my bike. Also, it has a API rating of SJ, which isn't the best for dirt bikes. It contains (so people say) less zinc and other anti-wear agents to prelong catalytic converters in new cars.
If you want to use Mobil 1 in Australia, go for the Mobil 1 4T (either full synthetic or semi syntetic.) it too has a gold cap (red on semi) and has a API rating of SG/SH, better for wear protection in our dirt bikes.
I would like to use Mobil 1 MX4T 10W50 (i think it was), but my local distributor claimed that 'it doesn't exsist', even though it appears on Mobils web page. Funny that.
 
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#13
Boozer,
I just did an oil/filter change on my '97 XR4 using the MOBIL 1" MX4T". This is a 10W40 oil. The MOBIL 1 20W50 motorcycle oil is "V-TWIN 20W50 For Cruisers"
Here is a link to the MOBIL website stateside:
http://www.mobil1.com/motorcycle/index.jsp

I don't know whether I should have used this oil (previous owner used Gold Spectra Full Synthetic but said he would rather use this MX4T stuff) but at $8 / quart it had better be good.

Good luck

John