i plan on changing the oil in my wrf after one more ride on it, by then it will have about 2 hours or so on it. Is this too soon to use a synthetic? I have had such good results with the mobil mx2t premix i would like to get the syn. in the thumper right away, not too mention i hate going to a dealer for anything!! how long should i wait ???? thanks,,,,craig williams jax,fl.
You're not suppose to use any synthetic oil in your new 250 F engine or gearbox. It says so right in your owner's manual.
You know.....I certainly didn't mean to start a controversy over what choice of oil you should be using, and I most definitely did not intend to spread MISINFORMATION on this forum. I re-read my owner's manual, and it states "do not add any chemical additives or use oils with a grade of CD of higher." I thought a CD rating meant it was synthetic. If not , I stand corrected.
Moreover, just to prove a point, I called all four of the Yamaha Dealership's here in town this morning, and asked to talk to the Service Manager. Guess what all four of them said when asked about synthetic oil for the WR 250 F.....you guessed it....all four of them recommended against using synthetic oil...all four of them expressing fears of clutch and gear slippage.
I stand by what I originally posted. It's just my opinion. It makes no difference to me what kind of oil you want to use. Just remember, if you do try using a full synthetic, and you do find your clutch slipping, it's next to impossible to completely drain all the synthetic oil out.
It's slippery stuff, and coats itself to the internal parts of your gearbox, leaving you with the same problem once drained and replaced.
[This message has been edited by ^SQUID^ RACING (edited 03-09-2001).]
You know.....I certainly didn't mean to start a controversy over what choice of oil you should be using, and I most definitely did not intend to spread MISINFORMATION on this forum. I re-read my owner's manual, and it states "do not add any chemical additives or use oils with a grade of CD of higher." I thought a CD rating meant it was synthetic. If not , I stand corrected.
Moreover, just to prove a point, I called all four of the Yamaha Dealership's here in town this morning, and asked to talk to the Service Manager. Guess what all four of them said when asked about synthetic oil for the WR 250 F.....you guessed it....all four of them recommended against using synthetic oil...all four of them expressing fears of clutch and gear slippage.
I stand by what I originally posted. It's just my opinion. It makes no difference to me what kind of oil you want to use. Just remember, if you do try using a full synthetic, and you do find your clutch slipping, it's next to impossible to completely drain all the synthetic oil out.
It's slippery stuff, and coats itself to the internal parts of your gearbox, leaving you with the same problem once drained and replaced.
[This message has been edited by ^SQUID^ RACING (edited 03-09-2001).]
rich: THANK YOU!
see my post at: http://dirtrider.net/ubb2/Forum16/HTML/001688.html
ok, now that we got that cleared up, back to the original query -- when to go with mobil 1 (or any other synthetic)? right away? couple of yamalube 4 changes first? i'm in the exact same place as cw242, another 1/2 hour on the bike and it's time to dump the oil, just wondering what will go in next, yamalube 4 or mobil1 15w50 NON-EC (the red cap).
the wrooster.
see my post at: http://dirtrider.net/ubb2/Forum16/HTML/001688.html
ok, now that we got that cleared up, back to the original query -- when to go with mobil 1 (or any other synthetic)? right away? couple of yamalube 4 changes first? i'm in the exact same place as cw242, another 1/2 hour on the bike and it's time to dump the oil, just wondering what will go in next, yamalube 4 or mobil1 15w50 NON-EC (the red cap).
the wrooster.
rich, if i understand your post correctly you are of the opinion that once you've run the bike for a couple of hours (aka the break-in) on the "factory-supplied" oil, the next change could be to synthetic, eg mobil1? i'm not trying to hold you to anything here, just want to get a feel for the whole 4 stroke oil situation.
ps
i'm guessing (!) that the factory load is dino oil, but i bet that if you called yamaha and spent three days on the phone with their various departments (r&d, manufacturing, etc) you would still not have the answer...
the wrooster (and 4 stroke 1st timer)
ps
i'm guessing (!) that the factory load is dino oil, but i bet that if you called yamaha and spent three days on the phone with their various departments (r&d, manufacturing, etc) you would still not have the answer...
the wrooster (and 4 stroke 1st timer)
I would bring the bike up to operating temperature and immediately dump the initial load of oil. There is a lot of junk floating around in there. I change the oil a couple of times in the first hour of running on a fresh motor and usually run Castrol GTX or Kendall GT. After the first few oil changes I switch to the oil I'm going to run .
this is exactly what i did. warmed it up and dumped the factory stuff. didn't even ride it before i dumped the factory oil. in went castrol gtx 20w50 and a new filter. rode it for 30 minutes at or below 1/2 throttle always varying it. dumped oil and filter. castrol gtx 20w50 went in with a new filter. rode another 30 minutes up to 3/4 throttle varying it. dumped that and filter. put in castrol gtx 10w30 (got cold) and a new filter. warmed it up and cooled it every night during the week. weekend, rode it for 2 hours. next weekend 4 more hours. dumped that oil and filter. castrol gtx 10w30 and new filter for 1st practice and race. dumped that (first time filter did NOT have shavings) and a new filter. in went AMSOil 10w30 Motorcycle Specific and a new filter for race #2. that's where i'm at now.
Is it fair to say what works for the Yamaha will work for most four stroke thumpers?
I have a new 2001 VOR503 and I am also going through this break in process. On my first oil change (dumping the factory stuff ) I had some filings on the magnetic plug. On my second change (using Bel-Ray semi-synthetic ) there were virtually no filings. Does this mean the break in is complete? Or does this mean I need to go back to a mineral based oil for a few more oil changes changes.
Will that AMSoil 10w-30 work with the bigger Yamaha's and those 500's like mine? Or should I find a 5w-50 like the Castrol Syntec or 0w-40 synthetic produced by Bel-Ray.
( This is my first four stroke anything with 2-wheels ...decisions, decisions )
------------------
2001 VOR503 V-Cross
1982 husqvarna XC430
1974 Bultaco Frontera 360
6 Kids, Four Ride, 3 race. (cr125, yz80, 2 KX125's)
Case 780, INT 1066, Ford LTL9000...and a Percheron
I have a new 2001 VOR503 and I am also going through this break in process. On my first oil change (dumping the factory stuff ) I had some filings on the magnetic plug. On my second change (using Bel-Ray semi-synthetic ) there were virtually no filings. Does this mean the break in is complete? Or does this mean I need to go back to a mineral based oil for a few more oil changes changes.
Will that AMSoil 10w-30 work with the bigger Yamaha's and those 500's like mine? Or should I find a 5w-50 like the Castrol Syntec or 0w-40 synthetic produced by Bel-Ray.
( This is my first four stroke anything with 2-wheels ...decisions, decisions )
------------------
2001 VOR503 V-Cross
1982 husqvarna XC430
1974 Bultaco Frontera 360
6 Kids, Four Ride, 3 race. (cr125, yz80, 2 KX125's)
Case 780, INT 1066, Ford LTL9000...and a Percheron
wiemedog,
AMSOil 10w30 or 20w50 Motorcycle Specific will certainly work in your new VOR. so would Mobil 1 15w50. if ya wanna run dino oil, Castrol GTX 10w30 or 20w50 are good choices. the viscosity you pick depends a LOT on outside temperatures. thinner for colder and thicker for hotter weather. this summer i will run nothing but 20w50 in this texas heat.
hokie,
EC stands for Energy Conserving. it is a combination of chemicals put into the oil that allows the parts in an engine to spin more freely. you do NOT want that on your wet clutch. hence the requirement by yamaha to use a NON-EC oil. all of those that i've ever listed and used are NON-EC.
AMSOil 10w30 or 20w50 Motorcycle Specific will certainly work in your new VOR. so would Mobil 1 15w50. if ya wanna run dino oil, Castrol GTX 10w30 or 20w50 are good choices. the viscosity you pick depends a LOT on outside temperatures. thinner for colder and thicker for hotter weather. this summer i will run nothing but 20w50 in this texas heat.
hokie,
EC stands for Energy Conserving. it is a combination of chemicals put into the oil that allows the parts in an engine to spin more freely. you do NOT want that on your wet clutch. hence the requirement by yamaha to use a NON-EC oil. all of those that i've ever listed and used are NON-EC.
Where would it say EC on the bottle?
I have two bottles of Mobil 1 tri-synthetic at home but have been leery of putting them in my 400 since I was not sure if it was EC or not. (The bottles have red caps, and do not say EC anywhere on them) I asked the guy at the auto parts store if it was EC and he looked at me like I was speaking Greek. Then he proceeds to say "I dunno, I run this stuff in my Virago tho' " Thanks a lot big guy.
I have been running elf 20w-50 oil ever since I got this bike, but had to get the mobil one day when the bike shop was closed.
------------------
A lack of planning on your part
does not constitute an emergency on my part
[This message has been edited by Hokie (edited 03-09-2001).]
I have two bottles of Mobil 1 tri-synthetic at home but have been leery of putting them in my 400 since I was not sure if it was EC or not. (The bottles have red caps, and do not say EC anywhere on them) I asked the guy at the auto parts store if it was EC and he looked at me like I was speaking Greek. Then he proceeds to say "I dunno, I run this stuff in my Virago tho' " Thanks a lot big guy.
I have been running elf 20w-50 oil ever since I got this bike, but had to get the mobil one day when the bike shop was closed.
------------------
A lack of planning on your part
does not constitute an emergency on my part
[This message has been edited by Hokie (edited 03-09-2001).]
hokie,
on the back. the round spec's lable. should have a whole bunch of 2 letter codes like SJ and so on. if EC is one of the codes, do NOT use it. if EC is NOT one of the codes then the oil is NON-EC and can be used. i'm pretty darn sure that all Mobil 1 15w50 sold in the USA is NON-EC. so if it is 15w50, you are safe. also, all of mine has had red caps. i know the lower viscosity Mobil 1 has green caps and DOES have the EC rating.
basically, look on the back of the bottle for the ratings. if you find EC, put it ONLY in your car. if you don't find EC, you can put it in your bike. ok?
on the back. the round spec's lable. should have a whole bunch of 2 letter codes like SJ and so on. if EC is one of the codes, do NOT use it. if EC is NOT one of the codes then the oil is NON-EC and can be used. i'm pretty darn sure that all Mobil 1 15w50 sold in the USA is NON-EC. so if it is 15w50, you are safe. also, all of mine has had red caps. i know the lower viscosity Mobil 1 has green caps and DOES have the EC rating.
basically, look on the back of the bottle for the ratings. if you find EC, put it ONLY in your car. if you don't find EC, you can put it in your bike. ok?
My WR came with at least one pint too much oil. I don't know if the factory did it or the setup guy at the shop failed to read the proper way to check the oil and just started pouring into a cold bike until it registered on the stick. Also, the oil was very thick and seemed to have a lot of assembly lube mixed in.
Seeing this, I would recommend draining the oil immediately after you get the new bike home and replacing with fresh oil for a five minute spin-up and then replacing the oil again along with the filter.
Thump on!
Seeing this, I would recommend draining the oil immediately after you get the new bike home and replacing with fresh oil for a five minute spin-up and then replacing the oil again along with the filter.
Thump on!