Wrong font wheel axle from factory?

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Jun 25, 2000
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#1
I left my suspension for revalving. I told the guy about how my forks were, soft yet harsh like it would be stiction. He then told me i should have taken the front wheel axle with me cause it could be wrong fitted on the bike. I told him it was stock and he said its quite usual that they are wrong from the factory. I didnt ask what would be wrong with it but i guiss the onlything would be the diameter where the forks mount, causing some kind of stiction. I will have the answer tomorrow when i hopefully get them back(Ill take the axle with me this time). Cant wait to try them.

I have never heard about this before, have you?
 
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Jan 2, 2001
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#2
One side of the axle must slide freely for a couple of mm's in the legclamp, so you can set it aligned with the fork legs. I can understand when it has not the right amount of movement in the first place to slide, it is difficult to set it correct. Maybe this is yr case, although i hope it is not, since you have payed them for revalving(i guess) allready. By the way, can you aks them for the valving setup, and the rest they did. Did they install the new bottomcone?
 
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#3
Originally posted by georgieboy
One side of the axle must slide freely for a couple of mm's in the legclamp, so you can set it aligned with the fork legs. I can understand when it has not the right amount of movement in the first place to slide, it is difficult to set it correct. Maybe this is yr case, although i hope it is not, since you have payed them for revalving(i guess) allready. By the way, can you aks them for the valving setup, and the rest they did. Did they install the new bottomcone?

It was like you said that it have to slide easy to get it aligned not that its wrong diameter causing some kind of stiction, he just grinded off a little bit and it slided on easy.

Well i got it revalved and i boubt the aligment have been my problem. And they did install the new bottoming cone, actually its installed above the spring so maybe i should call it topcone :) I were present in the workshop when they did the work on the forks as they wanted to install the stock springs which i didnt have with me when i left the suspension so i had to take it with me now. As far as i could see he drilled most of the holes the oil passes thrue bigger. Oh well i will go to the track tomorrow and expect to ride a totally different bike for the $510 the revalving costed.
 
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#4
Ahaaa, they used the old pistons and made the holes bigger. In order to let it flow more oil. And they probably put some more lowspeed shims in there aswell, I guess. To counteract the greater flow. I think yr high-speed will be better now(hits over roots etc.).
I did some fiddling with my pistons, yesterday. I smoothend out all the edges around the holes, to let oil flow more easy. Have to ride, probably tomorrow, to see if it helped also. Good luck with testing.
 
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#5
I rode today but the track was in very bad shape. Its a sandtrack that was like pudding in places and quite deep roots in the corners and quite bumpy.

I thought i would feel wow but i didnt. The headshake is gone and the harshness is reduced. Still i cant attact little bigger bumps, the rear is bouncing up. I didnt play a little with the clickers but didnt feel much difference, i think i went the wrong way. However now i have set the clickers from std to sand track settings according to a paper i got from the guy making the revalve. Two clicks in on the compression and rebound front and rear. Im not sure why it wants to bounce but i guiss too fast rebound or too soft/hard compression. What you think?

Tomorrow i think i will some more serious attemps getting the clickers right. Riding only the sections where it wants to bounce the rear and change the clickers and see if its getting better or worse rather than riding the complete lap and then change the clickers.