YZ 125 clutch issue.....HELP

[colinzx6]

I have a 01 yz 125. my clutch isnt disengaging. For example when i pull in the clutch when its in gear, it dosent wanna move as if it were in neutral. I took out the clutch discs outta the clutch basket n had a trained mechnic look at them.

He saw no burn marks or anything wrong with the clutch. He thinks i just need to adjust my clutch cable.

Anyone else have any idea.

 

[IndyMX]

Perhaps your mechanic has something there.. Did you try it?

 

[julien_d]

For example when i pull in the clutch when its in gear, it dosent wanna move as if it were in neutral.

Can you reword that please? That's what a clutch is supposed to do when it's pulled in. I'm not sure if you're saying the clutch is grabbing, or the clutch is slipping. If I take that sentence at face value, your clutch is working perfectly.

 

[colinzx6]

Well say when the bike isnt even running. Ill put it in first and ill pull in the clutch and i cant push it. Like the back wheel locks up basically with the clutch pulled in.

 

[6pac]

This is normal, its nothing to worry about.

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

The clutch works when the engine is running, best, and warmed up, best. You need a certain amount of free play in the clutch lever, an 1/8"th to a 1/4th", before the cable gets tight, and starts to dis-engage the clutch. Type and frequency of changes of transmission oil plays a big part in how the clutch works. Just sitting there, the clutch is engaged, pull in the lever dis-engages the clutch. Some are grabby, does not dis-engage completely a sign of bad oil, notches in the basket and/or hub, or warped metal plates. Vintage Bob

 

[colinzx6]

The plates arent really warped, I got new oil considering the old oil wasnt looking to good at all. Im just gonna put new oil in and adjust the clutch

 

[julien_d]

This question comes up again and again. With the engine not running, your clutch is not going to make it so you can push the bike as if it were in neutral. Wet clutches just don't work that way. The engine needs to be running for the clutch to work.

 

[OldMaiconut]

Changing the oil will fix it I bet. That took care of the last two that came in my shop.

 

[_JOE_]

My brand new CRF wouldn't roll with the trans in gear and clutch in. It never has. Even hot it barely will. I've run at least 3 different oils in the gearbox with the same results. I find it much easier to push the bike in nuetral?

 

[Dirtjunkie85]

125 clutches take a lot of abuse so regular maintenance and replacement is a must. When you have it apart make sure you inspect the fingers on the clutch basket for wear. They will sometimes get notches in them and the plates will get hung up and the clutch won't work well. You can get away with filing it down once or twice, but you'll eventually need a new basket if this is the case.

 

[rmc_olderthandirt]

The common tern for this is "clutch drag".

If a clutch has been badly overheated the plates will warp and make the clutch drag much worse. If the plates warped enough for you to see it then the clutch probably wouldn't work at all. A very slight warp would require you to place the clutch disk on a known flat surface to establish if it was warped.

If you are new to dirt bikes go find someone who has a similar bike and ask to push their bike around when it is cold. This will at least educate you on what a typical clutch drag should be so that you can establish if yours is really worse than others or not.

On my bike: I have a hard time starting my bike with it in gear and the clutch pulled in. The bike will idle all day in neutral but if it is in gear with clutch pulled in it will only idle for a few seconds, due to the clutch drag. If I am going to push the bike anywhere I will shift to neutral as pushing it in gear just doesn't work.

In fact, many times I will be riding along and decide to stop and take break. Because I am lazy I like to stop at a top of a hill so I can bump the start the bike when I am ready to go again. When it is time to get going I usually have to shift to neutral to allow the bike to roll fast enough to bump start it.

Bottom line, your bike could be just fine. If you can be running in neutral, engine idling and shift into first without the engine immediately stalling then it is probably OK.

Rod

The viscosity of the oil you use is also a factor. I run 5w-20 motor oil. Some people run ATF fluid which is even thinner.

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

"Aren't really warped", is not a good working clutch sentence, at all. You physically check them for deflection on a flat surface and feeler gauge, carefully. Inspect for uneven wear. And discoloration, any color, they are warped/trashed. The basket and inner hub, they both get grooves/divots from all of the plates, inside and outside, it will drag and slip. Worn or weak springs? Get stiffer, even a pair of real stiff ones(2)will help engage/dis engage, and keep from slipping the most you can. If it over heats it, it will destroys it. Check the dip stick oil smell frequently, really bad odor, toasted, start over again. And the clutch has an estimated clutch life in the manual. Use it for reference on how you are wearing out clutches, and adjust your service accordingly. Piece of cake, German chocolate! Vintage Bob