CR250 Woods Riding mods?

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Feb 21, 2003
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#1
What are the best steps to modify my 98 CR250 to be more woods friendly?

Right now this thing is ripping in stock mode. After getting the bike and a trailer I'm kinda tapped so I figure I would start with the lesser expensive mods to see if they are sufficient. Are these the correct order to try? Thoughts?:

1. Flywheel weight (not sure how many ounces)?

2. Carbon Fiber 2-stage reeds? Power valve? (Boysen, V-Force)?

3. Steering stabalizer (not enough funds for now but on the list asap) - would require aftermarket triple clamp since running factory clamps now.

4. Porting job from Bill is it? I've read many posts about .. but is he doing 2-strokes again? But again pricey now.

Thanks,
Hawk
 

dirt bike dave

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#2
Have your suspension revalved for woods riding. Factory Connection does a great job with woods suspension for CRs.

Get a big tank from Clarke if you like long loops.

Hand guards, of course.

The best flywheel weight is a personal preference thing. I would try 10 oz to start.

See if you can find a stock cylinder and pipe from a '99. The stock '99 porting and pipe are excellent for woods. Excellent low end on the '99 while the '98 is more zappy and preferred for MX. An MX rider with a '99 might want to swap cylinders and pipes with you.

FWIW, I had a set-up '99 I bought from the former D-36 enduro champ. It was a great woods bike. Motor mods were e-line lighting coil (acts like a flywheel weight), V-force reeds, an FMF silencer/spark arrestor and the carb and ignition from a '97. That's it. The motor was nearly identical in performance to my friend's '05 Ktm 250 exc.
 

CR Swade

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#3
I second that on the 99 cylinder for woods...awesome low-end, one of the best CR engines for woods IMO
 
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#4
I have a 97 CR250R and it runs pretty good in the woods. I mostly ride at a brisk pace thru the tight fire roads here in northwest NJ, usually out with my sons.
Here's what I did- Flywheel weight, 14 oz, works great. ProCircuit nature friendly silencer, 51 tooth rear sprocket.
DB Snorkle muffler silencer. I actually softened up the suspension adjustments a little from what the stock settings should be and it seems to be a nicer ride. Like I said, we usually take it easy, but I like to go thru the rough stuff also and the CR really eats up the abuse.

good luck!
Greg
 
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#5
get a gnarly pipe and boyseen reeds and a flywheel weight a steering stabilizer isnt neccasary, either is porting
 

James

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#6
suspension, suspension, suspension. Get that taken care of and you may not need anything else.

Scotts low mount does not require aftermarket clamps. Mounts between your fender and lower clamp and bolts to frame with drill and tap. I love mine. Easy install...no goofy tower clamp to fuss with. You get to keep your stock rubber mounted bars.

Gear lower so 1st geat is more usable...rarely need 5th (or 4th) in the woods. $15-$40 sprocket is cheaper than cylinders and porting

I ran the 14 oz flywheel on mine for a while...it has been sitting in the garage. I noticed it, I think it is a good mod, but can't say I'd spend money on it again.
 
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mtk

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#8
Can the Scotts low mount be used with an offroad headlight, or will it block some, or all, of the light output?
 

Steve St.Laurent

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#9
A Scotts may fit using your factory triple clamps although I'm not positive about the 98. I have a Scotts on my '04 CR and I'm using the factory bars and triple clamp. It came with a new clamp for on top of the bars that the damper attaches to and a bolt on clamp that goes around the steering head. I did have to mount the damper in reverse for which you need a puller to remove the bracket and remount it on the underside of the damper. Scotts sells one but I just made one out of steel in the garage in about 20 minutes. You can get them on the auction site for around $400 with the mount kit and all. Here's a picture with it mounted up:

 
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#10
If I was going to set up a racebike for trails,In order,silencer,fiberglass reeds,check ignition timing and jet it,2 maybe 3 teeth bigger rear sprocket and a o-ring chain.If you do not like it try that stupid scaryfast carb restrictor,lower compression and/or porting and head work.In my opinion carbon reeds enhance the hit off bottom and do not last like fiberglass.Why anybody would want to mess with the crankshaft balance and rotational mass I have no idea,but it should pull better off idle and mellow the mid.If you are changing the pipe look for low end power.But first get the suspension set for you and your riding style!
 
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#11
Suspension, Flwyheel weight, Maby an exhaust pipe for bottom end (FMF gnarley pipe, FMF fatty) And a skid plate! Save the engine...
 

James

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#12
mtk said:
Can the Scotts low mount be used with an offroad headlight, or will it block some, or all, of the light output?
Not sure. It LOOKS like it would fit mostly below the beam on my XR400 and I imagine you could mount some lights higher.

I am curious now. Might go to the Scotts site and see if they offer a low mount for any bikes that have lights and see if they have pics.
 
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#13
So as far as the reeds go.. should I change out my stock valve cage and go with a Boysen or V-Force? Or will just using the fiberglass reeds be fine?

Also, if I switch out pipes from the ProCircuit I currently have, what silencer would you recommend for the FMF Fatty or Gnarly?

Thanks,
John
 
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#14
Just a heads up, Scotts no longer makes the the tower or the stabilizer mount for the 98 cr. I ended designing and making my own.
 
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#15
I am really impressed with the v-force 3,the silencer will have to be forestry approved,correct?Ask them what they claim the pipe combos are best suited,fmf and pro circuit are fine,I have heard good things and prices from bills also.