crank shaft tool help
- Thread starter war child
- Start date
Some stator plates are non adjustable, others have an index mark that you line up. It all pretty much goes on one way. Make sure the stator plate seats in the case all the way. Its easier than roughing in a Grohe body shower valves!
Here's a crash course on 2-stroke operation !!
As the piston travels up the bore, it creates a vacuum in the crankcase and draws in an air/fuel charge (below the piston). When the piston changes direction and moves down the bore, it forces the reeds closed and pushes the air/fuel charge up through the transfer ports into the combustion chamber (on top of the piston). The piston then moves back up the bore, compressing the charge and at the same time, draws in another charge into the crankcase. Just before the piston reaches the top of the bore, the ignition system fires the spark plug, igniting the fuel charge. This forces the piston down the bore, at the same time pushes the new charge up the transfer ports. This fresh charge also pushes the exhaust out the exhaust ports. The piston goes up the bore and starts the whole thing over again, keeping the engine running.
As the piston travels up the bore, it creates a vacuum in the crankcase and draws in an air/fuel charge (below the piston). When the piston changes direction and moves down the bore, it forces the reeds closed and pushes the air/fuel charge up through the transfer ports into the combustion chamber (on top of the piston). The piston then moves back up the bore, compressing the charge and at the same time, draws in another charge into the crankcase. Just before the piston reaches the top of the bore, the ignition system fires the spark plug, igniting the fuel charge. This forces the piston down the bore, at the same time pushes the new charge up the transfer ports. This fresh charge also pushes the exhaust out the exhaust ports. The piston goes up the bore and starts the whole thing over again, keeping the engine running.
- Thread starter
- #56
cheers sharky and good to see you on my thread again, ive missed you, ha ha,
the engine is complete now just needs that scumbag who i orderd my stator off to send it , and then im hoping this old yamy, kick's back to life like david beckham taking a free kick,
the engine is complete now just needs that scumbag who i orderd my stator off to send it , and then im hoping this old yamy, kick's back to life like david beckham taking a free kick,
- Thread starter
- #58
sharky it wont let me have your email adress bcos it says i havnt registerd mine and i dont know how to register, i try and learn to do it and then we can swap emails,
sharky i put in the piston again today after rebuild, and it didnt have a arrow on top, so i didnt have a way of knowing which way to point it, its a wisco or somthing, it did have two tiny holes on one side of the piston , so i pointed these at the front tyre or the exaust if you like, i dont know if that was the exauhst port on the side near the front tyre, but its the side the exaust conects to the cylinder head, and the piston looked the same which ever way it went , exsept for the two little holes
sharky i put in the piston again today after rebuild, and it didnt have a arrow on top, so i didnt have a way of knowing which way to point it, its a wisco or somthing, it did have two tiny holes on one side of the piston , so i pointed these at the front tyre or the exaust if you like, i dont know if that was the exauhst port on the side near the front tyre, but its the side the exaust conects to the cylinder head, and the piston looked the same which ever way it went , exsept for the two little holes
I believe you have the piston in correctly. Did you notice the ring locator pins in the ring grooves ? They always go to the intake side of the cylinder. These pins stop the rings from turning on the piston so the ring ends don't get caught on the ports. If you click on my name above, you can view my public profile. You should see my e-mail at the bottom of the top right box for contact info.
- Thread starter
- #60
yes i did notice a little pin in the grove were the piston sits and i put the ring to this, i forgot if that went to the back or the front now, i looked at the wisco site and i think that the two little holes go were i put them, it was a bit hard because i didnt take the top off the cylinder head, the cap with the coolent tube on bcos the bolts were already tourke wrench set so i left them on and just slid the lot over the piston and ring, i think it should be ok, will the engine tell me if its not the right way,if it starts and goes realy well,runs good, should i take it that every thing is ok
If I were you, I'd check and make sure those pins are towards the intake (carb. side). If the piston is in backwards, you will end up with a very costly failure. The rings will catch on the ports and break. This will also cause the engine to stop suddenly because the broken ring(s) will get jammed between the piston and the cylinder. (ouch !!!! :yikes: )
P.S. ..I edited my last post with info on how you can get my e-mail address.
P.S. ..I edited my last post with info on how you can get my e-mail address.
If your cylinder has a bridge(6~7mm wide, right in the middle of the exhaust port) then the piston will have 2-1mm(estimated size?) holes. Up and down about half way on the skirt, exhaust side, 2 holes about 8 mm apart. It supplies extra lubrication for the bridge. Some you have to drill yourself. What brand piston do you have?
Yes, sounds ok.
longtime coming
Member
- Mar 18, 2006
- 265
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Have you checked to make sure you have all the gears and that everything is turning over and operating properly (tranny). And yes, you have the piston facing the right way. You want to turn the whole works over slowly and carefully to make sure all is well before you start it. Sounds like you got 'er. :)
- Thread starter
- #67
yeah i got the gears working ok, when i split the case i tried to leave them in the case half and pull them out as one unit but it just fell out coks every were, took me 2 hours to get them what i thaught was right, any way when i took it to a bike shop to get the crank pulled back into the bearings i put in he, said i had done ok ,
one thing im unsure of is that yesterday i found i had a washer left on the work top, it just appeared from nowere, realy i had tryed realy hard to get this build right, and at no point had i seen this washer before, next thing i know i just moved the case i was working on and it was there, its the same oily colour as the rest of the washers out of the bike so it must be from it, and i havnt done this in a workshop or shed or anything with washers,it all got done in my kitchen,iv been back througth the user manual and i cant think wherte it came from, its a realy thin one the kind that would usualy go between a cog and the case half, or if you like a moving part and one that doesnt move, its done my head in bcos of all my hard work the fact is i shouldnt have this washer and it means that realy i havent done it right,not a good job,the washer is about the same size as a golf ball and 1mm thin and 3mm on the flat part.
when i look at how the bike is built i can understand why every washer is there and what its role is , and if your life depended on it that some washers if they wasnt in the engine couldnt cause to much of a problem, i think!?!?!? .. i just hope that this washer is one of them, but i havent seen this size anywhere in the engine or i would of put it back, i would say that tha inner hole on the washer is ,about a inch and a 1/4 , ---- 1-1/4 " so it was i little to big for the crank, and its size, and maybe the gearing, possibly the round selector , with the grooves in that the gearing cogs get pushed up and down from, who knows, but i never seen it before
one thing im unsure of is that yesterday i found i had a washer left on the work top, it just appeared from nowere, realy i had tryed realy hard to get this build right, and at no point had i seen this washer before, next thing i know i just moved the case i was working on and it was there, its the same oily colour as the rest of the washers out of the bike so it must be from it, and i havnt done this in a workshop or shed or anything with washers,it all got done in my kitchen,iv been back througth the user manual and i cant think wherte it came from, its a realy thin one the kind that would usualy go between a cog and the case half, or if you like a moving part and one that doesnt move, its done my head in bcos of all my hard work the fact is i shouldnt have this washer and it means that realy i havent done it right,not a good job,the washer is about the same size as a golf ball and 1mm thin and 3mm on the flat part.
when i look at how the bike is built i can understand why every washer is there and what its role is , and if your life depended on it that some washers if they wasnt in the engine couldnt cause to much of a problem, i think!?!?!? .. i just hope that this washer is one of them, but i havent seen this size anywhere in the engine or i would of put it back, i would say that tha inner hole on the washer is ,about a inch and a 1/4 , ---- 1-1/4 " so it was i little to big for the crank, and its size, and maybe the gearing, possibly the round selector , with the grooves in that the gearing cogs get pushed up and down from, who knows, but i never seen it before
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- Thread starter
- #69
thanks for the help and posting that but, none of the crank type rods are wide enougth to fit snug in side the washer, the washer size is wider than all the crank and gear rods, the only thing that looked wide enougth is the rubber tube thing that the gear rods locate into when you change gear, if you know which part i mean, the one that turns with grooves in knocking the cogs up and down , the washer is the same size as the out side of the crank bearing, in the crank bearing you have one out side metal circle next you have the bearings then you have the inner circle that the conrod pushes througth, its not the inner but the outer rim of the bearings, my washer laid flat on top of the bearing is the same size
I hope its not the rod thrust washers! Too small for the kickstarter? #4?
The only other place, and the parts list did not show them on your bike, sometimes there are 2 big washers that go between the engine and the frame, 1 on each side, where the swingarm axle goes through. If it as big as the shift drum, there are not many that big!
- Thread starter
- #75
hi guys and thanks again to you all, its not washer no 4 bcos i didnt take the kick parts-apart left them in engine , well i did take it out but didnt take it apart, and it could be Reference number 17, althougth it doesnt look big enougth on the diagram,
tricky one this, keep trying lads, just to give me ideas, i looked at the manual for two hours yesterday and couldnt see it, i think its to do with the gear cogs i had them in pieces, it does feel like its going one down and 5 up,
tricky one this, keep trying lads, just to give me ideas, i looked at the manual for two hours yesterday and couldnt see it, i think its to do with the gear cogs i had them in pieces, it does feel like its going one down and 5 up,
