I have a 2002 kdx 200 and am experiencing problems when trying to kick start bike while engaged in gear with clutch lever pulled in. Have adjusted clutch lever correctly-followed manual very closely (pretty common sense). Any ideas out there as to what problems may be/ anyone experienced this problem and what was the remedy if any. Will worn clutch plates do this? Just seems as though clutch is not disengaging all the way. Clutch acts fine other than this. Will lighter or thicker weight oil help (running 10w40)? Manual says under trouble shooting guide to put in an extra spacer on pushout bearing. Just looking for some ideas before tearing this thing down.
kdx clutch questions
- Thread starter minidog
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procircuit21
Member
- Nov 19, 2002
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It's just from the clutch plates dragging a little bit with the lever pushed in. I don't think it would be from worn clutch plates. A thinner oil could help.
89kdx200rdr
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- Apr 19, 2003
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why are u kicking it in gear? cause u stalled out? just find neutral. worn clutch plates would make it easier to start in gear. see if u can start your bike when it's cold in gear.
Nick Geiger
Member
- Jun 16, 2003
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My bike has been the same since new. It is just a KDX thing. If I put in gear and pull in clutch with engine off, I can hardly push the bike forward. Mine will start with clutch in and in gear sometimes, but I found shifting to neutral is the sure way of starting first kick.
The answer is always to go into neutral , (or don't stall it).
The answer is always to go into neutral , (or don't stall it).
- Jan 8, 2000
- 3,331
- 1
That is normal clutch drag. Happens in all motorcycles; from street bikes to dirtbikes. It is less noticable in street bikes because of the electric start, but as Nick mentioned, put any bike in gear and hold the clutch and the bike is darn hard to move.
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Knobbyjake
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- Jan 29, 2000
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I was told by my local dealer that the clutch springs are the weak link, to get rid of them and put KX250 springs in. Anybody else hear that? :think:
- Jan 8, 2000
- 3,331
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If the clutch operation is smooth (not at the lever, but on actuation) and not grabby on release, I wouldn't suspect that problem.
canyncarvr
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- Oct 14, 1999
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1. 'clutch springs are the weak link'
They are kinda puny, but they don't have anything to do with this issue.
Take any bike (or anything else with a wet clutch) and check the difference between pushing the cold beastie with the trans in gear and clutch engaged (lever/pedal pulled/pushed) to pushing it in neutral.
You'll be lucky to push it anywhere with the trans in gear.
Personally, I'll be skidding my rear tire if I try pushing my cold bike in gear with the clutch engaged. Not a whole lot better when it's warmed up, either.
re: 'thinner oil help?'
Yes. 10-40W (given that you're running motor oil) isn't a very good choice for cool weather.
re: '..put in an extra spacer'
Maybe. But, follow the method to determine if that's the issue. Basically, if the lever º is more than 90º, remove a shim (washer). If it's less than 90º, put in a shim.
Example...after I installed vesrah plates from frp, my clutch stack was a bit 'thick'. I removed a shim.
The reasoning being fairly obvious. The closer you are to having the midway point of the pull arc @ 90º, the greater linear movement (cable pull) you will have.
Capiche?
Agreed. Basket fingers aren't indicated unless once you are running it is difficult to shift into neutral.
They are kinda puny, but they don't have anything to do with this issue.
Take any bike (or anything else with a wet clutch) and check the difference between pushing the cold beastie with the trans in gear and clutch engaged (lever/pedal pulled/pushed) to pushing it in neutral.
You'll be lucky to push it anywhere with the trans in gear.
Personally, I'll be skidding my rear tire if I try pushing my cold bike in gear with the clutch engaged. Not a whole lot better when it's warmed up, either.
re: 'thinner oil help?'
Yes. 10-40W (given that you're running motor oil) isn't a very good choice for cool weather.
re: '..put in an extra spacer'
Maybe. But, follow the method to determine if that's the issue. Basically, if the lever º is more than 90º, remove a shim (washer). If it's less than 90º, put in a shim.
Example...after I installed vesrah plates from frp, my clutch stack was a bit 'thick'. I removed a shim.
The reasoning being fairly obvious. The closer you are to having the midway point of the pull arc @ 90º, the greater linear movement (cable pull) you will have.
Capiche?
Agreed. Basket fingers aren't indicated unless once you are running it is difficult to shift into neutral.
- Thread starter
- #12
I wouldnt normally complain about this issue really but when Im on the starting line with 40 other bikes in a hare scrambles race and it is a dead engine start for these events (90% of the time) I have to start bike in neuteral then put it gear and then go-by this time Im just about in last place before I even get off the line. A riding buddy of mine who owns a 2003 CRF-450 is experiencing same issues with his clutch so I dont think this is only a KDX issue. He bought his bike brand new as did I. I remember back when I was riding 1980's dirt bikes that I never experienced this problem with clutches not disengaging properly and these bikes were pretty well abused. Just put the thing in gear, pull clutch in, kick until started (no drag) and go. Any time I start bike (trail riding, play riding, cold engine, etc..) I always start in neuteral. Just curious if there was something wrong with my bike or is something I must live with.
- Jan 8, 2000
- 3,331
- 1
While I agree that clutch drag is normal, not being able to start the bike in gear (clutch in) is not. I can easily start my KDX in or out of gear. In fact, I'd have to say that I get off a dead start HS as fast as the electric start bikes because I can kick and release the clutch in one motion.
Cicone, you have a TS-185 too!
Cicone, you have a TS-185 too!
RV6junkie---had one in high school. Great bike, but compared to the '90 kdx 200---well there isn't a comparison. I hadn't ridden seriously since the mid-late '70's until a few months age after the kdx purchase. Funny, after my third or fourth ride my wife asked me if it was "coming back" to me---hehe---told her NO, the stuff I can do on this bike would have killed me on the old Suzuki. I've search the net looking for a color picture of the old battle axe, but narry a hit. Mine was red with a white tank stripe, chrome fenders, 21" Akront front rim, and usually a slightly modified stock pipe--are a borrowed Bassanni? expansion chamber. Did the porting myself ;). If you have a pic, I'd love to see it. Shoot me an email: [email protected]. Rock on, my brother.
- Jan 8, 2000
- 3,331
- 1
Mine is a '76 and has the orange tank with the white stripe, gray fenders. It's also 100% original. I've toyed with selling it a few times but I can't part with it. I'd like to make it street legal so I could get some kind of use out of it, but the title is long since gone. As of now it just get's pushed around the garage so I can get it out of the way of the other 10 bikes in there. Every now and then I'll start it. I can sit for months and start on the first kick.
I'm sure I have a picture of it some where.
I'm sure I have a picture of it some where.
Put in the Heavy duty clucth springs from barrnett, to get the one or two finger pull back lengthen the clucth arm a 1/2 inch you should be fine. Most shops charge 45-50 dollars, if you got axsess to a welder a piece of flat steel and drill hey free-be and a little time and your done. My 95 had very weak springs, DID not have the clucth Drag you are experiencing, try some different oils, if that does not help tear down the basket and check the fingers for grooving if you hammer your clucth alot in racing thats most likly it.
Once warmed up my 97 Kdx220 starts easily in gear -like RV6junkie says a real advantage at dead engine HS starts. (Even tho I can't push it in 1st or 2nd gear with the clutch disengaged.) I run Type "F" ATF based on recommendations here and elsewhere. Seems like I often pass guys stuck in mud looking for neutral.
I don't remember-did you try a new cable-maybe your old one is stretching?? Try tightening the cable a little "too tight" just to see if it helps-might tell you something. I'd change the oil.
I don't remember-did you try a new cable-maybe your old one is stretching?? Try tightening the cable a little "too tight" just to see if it helps-might tell you something. I'd change the oil.
- Thread starter
- #23
Thanks for all the input on this subject. I will start with cheapest fixes first until I solve problem and post what worked if any. Will have to go into clutch and remove it anyway very soon to fix ratchet assembly on kickstarter so while Im there Ill check all the specs on clutch. Yall have fun!
I've had the same issues since new - never completely eliminated it, but here's my method and it seems to make starting a little faster.
About 1 to 2 rows before your start (assuming you're not on the AA line :confused: ) after you start the bike, put it in gear. I usually start in 2nd. Rev it a few times and when they put up the 30 second board, kill it but don't let out the clutch. This seems to keep the clutch plates a bit freer, and you can spin it over faster with that first kick.
I rode a friends GG300 a few weeks ago - now that's an easy bike to start in gear.
canyncarvr
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- Oct 14, 1999
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Sure thing!
Obviously what makes the thing sticky is the drag the plates exert on the disks from being squeezed. If you loosen them up by running them with the clutch engaged and don't squeeze 'em back together afterward, you'll be way ahead of an 'otherwise' method.
Consider taking something flat and putting it on the kitchen counter with only water as the 'seal'. It can be pretty hard to get that 'stiction' undone. OK, make that 'something' a disk plate and make the seal with oil instead of water, then squeeze it together with a few fairly big springs........
Well, you can see it's going to be stuck pretty good. Just taking the pressure off isn't going to matter a whole lot.
Obviously what makes the thing sticky is the drag the plates exert on the disks from being squeezed. If you loosen them up by running them with the clutch engaged and don't squeeze 'em back together afterward, you'll be way ahead of an 'otherwise' method.
Consider taking something flat and putting it on the kitchen counter with only water as the 'seal'. It can be pretty hard to get that 'stiction' undone. OK, make that 'something' a disk plate and make the seal with oil instead of water, then squeeze it together with a few fairly big springs........
Well, you can see it's going to be stuck pretty good. Just taking the pressure off isn't going to matter a whole lot.
