Sorry, mate. We sure don't.
"O" ring or non "O" ring chain?
- Thread starter a454elk
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MikeT
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- Jan 17, 2001
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Well, since this thread has really asked the question about O-ring or Non O-ring, I am really going to have to side with the O-Ring for several reasons. Although I believe the lube technology has come a long way and proper maintanance going a long way, I believe the O-ring has a huge advantage over the non.
With my new bike, it came with a non o-ring chain so I was forced to use it for a while anyway. I went through the complete cleaning after every ride and lubed it up as usual with the same lubes I have been using in the same quantities, however this chain is showing much accelerated wear over my previous RK X-Ring chain. I ride on the same tracks, I ride with the same frequency. I am riding a 250 instead of a 125 but I feel the main difference is that this chain is a NON O-ring.
I don't discount the lubes any as they are MUCH better than the old sticky types. I have not been running in mud bog events so it's not the dirt. I can only say it must be the fact that this chain is a non O-ring. As good a lube as there is out there, and dispite what testing might say, I have to say that my real world experience is showing me that an O or X-ring chain lasts much longer. I don't believe that a non O-ring chain can fight a fair fight against an O-ring chain. It just isn't a fair fight. IMO
I can't deny the real world results that are happening right before my eyes in my own garage. My replacement chain for this one will be another RK X-Ring. I will also lube it with the Honda stuff and Jaybirds like I have always done.
MikeT
With my new bike, it came with a non o-ring chain so I was forced to use it for a while anyway. I went through the complete cleaning after every ride and lubed it up as usual with the same lubes I have been using in the same quantities, however this chain is showing much accelerated wear over my previous RK X-Ring chain. I ride on the same tracks, I ride with the same frequency. I am riding a 250 instead of a 125 but I feel the main difference is that this chain is a NON O-ring.
I don't discount the lubes any as they are MUCH better than the old sticky types. I have not been running in mud bog events so it's not the dirt. I can only say it must be the fact that this chain is a non O-ring. As good a lube as there is out there, and dispite what testing might say, I have to say that my real world experience is showing me that an O or X-ring chain lasts much longer. I don't believe that a non O-ring chain can fight a fair fight against an O-ring chain. It just isn't a fair fight. IMO
I can't deny the real world results that are happening right before my eyes in my own garage. My replacement chain for this one will be another RK X-Ring. I will also lube it with the Honda stuff and Jaybirds like I have always done.
MikeT
Last edited:
- Jun 5, 2001
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- Thread starter
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Like I've said before, I have a mix of both chains so the maintenance is a little different on each. The non-O ring on the Zuki is still the original, orginal sprokets as well and it's been 3 years now. I may be nuts but the chain is fine, just a little stretching but not that much. I spray both types chains off with degreaser but only pressure wash off the non O one. I use only WD-40, nothing else, (no offense J, if you could send me some I'll use yours instead!). It dries, I ride, when I come back from the ride I spray another coat of WD and let it sit. I wire brush clean it if gunk builds up, but it usually does not since there isn't any heavy lube on it. I used to do the same on my street bike chain and I got it to last about 40K miles.
I think the key is a clean chain, gunk gets jammed up in the rollers and stretches it out along with messing up the sprockets, no matter what type of chain you use. Just my .02.
I think the key is a clean chain, gunk gets jammed up in the rollers and stretches it out along with messing up the sprockets, no matter what type of chain you use. Just my .02.
RK-MXZ
DID-ERT
EK-MRD
Diamond-MS
DID-ERT
EK-MRD
Diamond-MS
MikeT
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- Jan 17, 2001
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Jay, Let me ask me a question about chain lubing frequency. What is your opinion about lubing a chain during a ride? I mean a normal day of riding at say the trails or track. Say we go out with a freshly lubed chain from when we last washed the bike and then go out to ride for say three sessions at 25 or so minutes a piece. Would you recommend lubing between each and every break time or is the initial lube good enough to last the total 75 or so minutes? Figure dry conditions. Then would it change if we were in wet conditions? Also figure a non O-ring chain and then with an O-ring.
In dry conditions a good dry-film will last probably a full day of riding on the track, however the dust and grit that can be introduced makes it smart to throw a quick lube after each moto. The solvent carrier in the lube will clean anything that may be around the friction points, even though you may still have moly or surface treat at work.
A ring chain will obvously need less lube. However, for the reasons stated above it makes sense to apply some lube any time you stop to fuel or rest.
When it's wet and sloppy out, a ring chain should be mounted anyway, but if not it is very important to apply lube whenever you can. Good dry-film resists water wash-out, but the chances of encountering grit is far greater when you have mud and water around. Even when you do have your ring chain mounted, you should use the lube to help keep the rings free of dirt and grit.
It only takes a few moments to slosh on some dry-film. Spin the rear wheel awhile to get it worked in good so it can penetrate and clean all the surfaces. It also gives you a chance to put an eye on your chain. Check for any kinked links, missing mater clip, etc...
Using messy, sticky parafin wax makes for a nasty mess no matter when you lube. Even more so when it's muddy out. Grinding paste.
A ring chain will obvously need less lube. However, for the reasons stated above it makes sense to apply some lube any time you stop to fuel or rest.
When it's wet and sloppy out, a ring chain should be mounted anyway, but if not it is very important to apply lube whenever you can. Good dry-film resists water wash-out, but the chances of encountering grit is far greater when you have mud and water around. Even when you do have your ring chain mounted, you should use the lube to help keep the rings free of dirt and grit.
It only takes a few moments to slosh on some dry-film. Spin the rear wheel awhile to get it worked in good so it can penetrate and clean all the surfaces. It also gives you a chance to put an eye on your chain. Check for any kinked links, missing mater clip, etc...
Using messy, sticky parafin wax makes for a nasty mess no matter when you lube. Even more so when it's muddy out. Grinding paste.
YZ165
YZabian
- May 4, 2004
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Jaybird said:
You're right, my maintenance sucks. But, the D.I.D. X-ring dosen't seem to be affected by that. The Renthal is probably a good chain for someone who dosen't mind cleaning, lubing, and adjusting their chain every ride. I personally spend about 30 seconds per ride day lubing my chain. If I spent 15 minutes every ride day(twice a week usually), cleaning, lubing, and adjusting my chain, that would be two hours per month. The price difference between the chains is about $50.00. After six months I've spent half an hour as apposed to 12 hours. $50/11.5=$4.35. So for every hour of chain maintenance I do, I saved $4.35! My time is worth more than that. If there are any volunteers, I'd gladly pay you $4.35/hr to maintain my chain for me! Any takers? :laugh:
If you run your gearbox dry for a couple of rides, you will also claim it was junk... and btw...who the hell is Nuf, and wtf does he know?YZ165 said:
:(
jmics19067
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- Jan 22, 2002
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while you have the bike on the stand and you are setting there at the back of the bike maintaining your chain it is a perfect time to check your sprocket bolts,spokes,wheel bearings, swingarm bearings,shock linkage bolts, rear brake system, silencer mounts,carburator/air box mounting,shifter bolt...etc..etc. I have found out that it is far cheaper to spend the time cleaning and checking even if I am "wasting" time then having to buy a rotor because the brake pads were low or some other malady happens.
They both have one thing in common....don't take care of them and they will wear prematurely. That is an indisputable fact.
YZ165
YZabian
- May 4, 2004
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:bang:Jaybird said:
My point is Jaybird, that the D.I.D. X-ring is bullet proof. I'm a chain abuser and I know it. That being said, the D.I.D. is the best choice for me, and anyone else like me.
As far as premature wear, you're saying that if I spent some quality time with my chain, it would last longer. I understand that, but I had the same chain on my last two bikes, Isn't that long enough? How many bikes do most "well taken care of " chains go through? NONE! Most bikes go through chains and sprockets. I put my year old (and abused) chain on my brand new '02 YZ426. I sold the bike a year later with the stock sprockets and now two year old chain on it. They were all still in good shape. Do you see where I'm coming from here? I'm not saying you are wrong at all Jaybird, I'm just saying that if someone wants an incredable chain that is worth the money, and is not hard to maintain, the D.I.D 520VM X-ring is the way to go.
MikeT
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- Jan 17, 2001
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chapmanmd said:
Although that is true, I rode with an X-ring on my YZ125 for 2 years, I and the bike didn't notice the power loss. I know it did lose some power but since I never use it all anyway the only difference was that I must have just turned the throttle a little more.
I certainly do not disagree with you for MX or woods riding. Its just that when running TT or short track events, I always want to put as much power as I can to the ground. You're right, most people don't mind losing a little hp for a maintenance free ride. All that I can say is that on a short track (1/4 mile or less) or on a half-mile, I feel the difference.
A premium non-O-ring chain isn't cheap and I feel like they make them for a reason.
There is an X-Ring on my CRF450R. There is an X-Ring on my Banshee. There is an X-Ring on my CR250. These bikes see mud and sand and water. I want the protection on my Hare Scrambles and woods bikes that the X-ring provides. There, however, is not an X or O-Ring on my flat track RM250 or on my Rotax 505.
I don't disagree with you. I'm just throwing out different ideas that work in different situations.
Peace.
Mark Chapman
A premium non-O-ring chain isn't cheap and I feel like they make them for a reason.
There is an X-Ring on my CRF450R. There is an X-Ring on my Banshee. There is an X-Ring on my CR250. These bikes see mud and sand and water. I want the protection on my Hare Scrambles and woods bikes that the X-ring provides. There, however, is not an X or O-Ring on my flat track RM250 or on my Rotax 505.
I don't disagree with you. I'm just throwing out different ideas that work in different situations.
Peace.
Mark Chapman
MikeT
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- Jan 17, 2001
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Yes, definately different situations. I think that a flat track or TT bikes chain probably has less dirt and obviously no mud to deal with. Also those bikes are run wide open most of the time so I guess it (power loss) would show up there.
As far as cost, an RK X-ring chain that will fit a 250 can be had from Rocky Mountain Cycle for $51.00 which I think is very reasonable. That is what I had on my 125 and it is still on it with the new owner. Great chain.
As far as cost, an RK X-ring chain that will fit a 250 can be had from Rocky Mountain Cycle for $51.00 which I think is very reasonable. That is what I had on my 125 and it is still on it with the new owner. Great chain.
Sorry Mark, my post was not intended as a shot at you, just those amateur MXers that think that 1/2hp is going to make or break their performance on the track. I guess I could see where it might be more notacable in a DT environment. I also agree that there is definitly a time and place for non-ring chains, without question.
I'd sure like to try flat track myself, heck maybe I might be able to feel the difference in chains ;) ...but none in these parts...sadly.
I'd sure like to try flat track myself, heck maybe I might be able to feel the difference in chains ;) ...but none in these parts...sadly.
No offense taken.
This is one of those questions that will never be answered satisfactorily to everyone. It's like the question, "Which oil is better?", or "Is Honda better than Yamaha?".
It all comes down to personal preference. Period.
I, for one, however, am glad to see that there is passion regarding our sport and our equipment and that we DO have differences of opinions. That's what keeps all of our vendors alive!! If everyone agreed, there would only need to be one chain, right?.
Take care guys.
Mark Chapman
This is one of those questions that will never be answered satisfactorily to everyone. It's like the question, "Which oil is better?", or "Is Honda better than Yamaha?".
It all comes down to personal preference. Period.
I, for one, however, am glad to see that there is passion regarding our sport and our equipment and that we DO have differences of opinions. That's what keeps all of our vendors alive!! If everyone agreed, there would only need to be one chain, right?.
Take care guys.
Mark Chapman
